Combining Oil-Soluble Vitamin E and Water-Soluble Vitamin C in Formulations

Asked by: naasuaysai On: September 07, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can oil-soluble Vitamin E and water-soluble Vitamin C be combined in a cosmetic formulation? Is direct mixing possible, or is a specific type of base (like a cream, lotion, or serum) required? What are suitable forms of each vitamin and is a preservative needed?

Answer

Combining Vitamin E and Vitamin C in Formulations

Regarding your question about mixing Vitamin E and Vitamin C directly, the previous reply is correct. Vitamin E is typically oil-soluble, while many effective forms of Vitamin C are water-soluble. They cannot be mixed purely together in a stable way without a proper formulation base.

To combine Vitamin E and Vitamin C effectively, you need to create an emulsion, such as a cream, lotion, or serum, that contains both an oil phase and a water phase. This allows the oil-soluble Vitamin E to be dispersed in the oil phase and the water-soluble Vitamin C to be dissolved in the water phase, with the emulsion holding them together.

Suitable Types of Vitamin E and Vitamin C

For Vitamin E, you would typically use an oil-soluble form like Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) or Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol). These provide antioxidant benefits and help stabilize oils in the formula.

For Vitamin C, you have several options, depending on the desired potency and ease of formulation:

  • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): This is the most potent form but is highly unstable in water and requires a low pH (typically 2.0-4.0) for stability, which can be irritating to the skin. It dissolves in water.
  • Stable Vitamin C Derivatives: These are easier to formulate and more stable. Examples include:
    • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: Water-soluble, highly stable, works in a pH range of 3.5-6.0.
    • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP): Water-soluble, highly stable, work in an alkaline pH range (typically 7-9).

Formulation and Ratio

The specific ratio depends on the desired concentration and the type of Vitamin C used. For example, a common effective range for Vitamin E is 0.1-1%. For L-ascorbic acid, concentrations often range from 10-15% for significant effects, while stable derivatives might be used at 1-10%.

A typical formulation would involve creating an oil phase (containing Vitamin E and other oils/emollients) and a water phase (containing Vitamin C and other water-soluble ingredients), then emulsifying them together using an emulsifier.

Preservative

Yes, any cosmetic formulation that contains water must include a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast. There are many types of preservatives available, such as Mild Preserved Eco™.

In summary, you cannot simply mix Vitamin E and Vitamin C powders or liquids directly. They need to be properly formulated into an emulsion base like a cream or serum, using appropriate types of each vitamin and including a preservative if the formula contains water.