Combining PHA and Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) in a Formula

Asked by: meimeiriddhiraksa On: June 16, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can I combine the following ingredients in a single formula, which will consist only of these components plus water?

  • Natural PHA (Gluconolactone) 10%
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Timed-Release) 3%
  • Mild Preserved Eco 1%

Answer

Subject: Combining PHA and BHA

Yes, it is possible to combine PHA (like Gluconolactone) and BHA (like Encapsulated Salicylic Acid) in the same formula, but it requires careful consideration and comes with potential risks.

  • PHA (Gluconolactone) is a milder exfoliant compared to AHA/BHA, known for hydration benefits as well.
  • BHA (Salicylic Acid) is oil-soluble and effective for exfoliating inside pores.

Combining multiple exfoliants, especially at the concentrations you mentioned (10% PHA, 3% BHA), can significantly increase the risk of skin irritation, redness, dryness, and sensitivity.

While the Encapsulated, Timed-Release Salicylic Acid you chose is designed to be gentler, 3% is still a high concentration when used alongside another exfoliant.

The pH of the final formulation is crucial. Both PHA and BHA are most effective at acidic pH levels, which can also increase the potential for irritation.

Recommendation:

  • This combination might be too strong, especially for sensitive skin.
  • If you proceed, start with a lower concentration of one or both ingredients.
  • Always perform a patch test on a small area before applying to the full face.
  • Consider using products expertly formulated to contain both ingredients, as they are designed with pH balance and irritation mitigation in mind.
  • Ensure your formulation's pH is appropriate and stable.

In summary, while technically possible, your proposed concentrations carry a high risk of irritation. Proceed with extreme caution.