Combining Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Azelaic Acid in Formulas

Asked by: murderero On: October 12, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have two formulas. The first initially used regular `BHA` (Salicylic Acid) and the second contains `Azelaic Acid`. I was advised against using them together due to irritation from combining the regular `BHA` with the formula containing `Azelaic Acid`. If I change the `BHA` in the first formula to `Encapsulated Salicylic Acid` (Timed Release BHA), can I still use the two formulas together? Or what adjustments should I make?

Answer

Hello,

Thank you for providing your revised formulas and questions. I will review them for you.

Formula 1 (Essence for acne, inflammation, pores):

  • Your revised formula uses Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 6.6%, which delivers 2% active Salicylic Acid. This is a good choice for targeting acne and clogged pores, and the encapsulated form may help reduce potential irritation compared to regular Salicylic Acid.
  • The other ingredients like Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Marigold, Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Bisabolol (at the recommended 0.3%), Allantoin, Preservative, and Xanthan Gum are suitable for an essence base aimed at soothing, hydrating, and supporting the main active ingredient.
  • The percentages you've chosen seem reasonable for this type of product and align with the goal of reducing acne and inflammation and tightening pores.

Formula 2 (Serum for brightening, oil control):

  • This formula includes Azelaic Acid at 5%. This concentration is within the effective range for Azelaic Acid to help with both brightening and oil control/acne.
  • The combination of Betaine, Marigold, NAG, B3, Alpha Arbutin, Kojic, Licorice root extract, Aloe, Cucumber, and Allantoin provides a good mix of brightening, soothing, hydrating, and oil-balancing properties, supporting the main action of Azelaic Acid.
  • The percentages appear reasonable for a serum formulation.

Using both formulas together:

  • Based on the previous advice from the staff, it is not recommended to use Formula 1 (containing Encapsulated Salicylic Acid) and Formula 2 (containing Azelaic Acid) together in the same routine, even though Encapsulated BHA is milder.
  • Both Salicylic Acid (BHA) and Azelaic Acid are active ingredients that can cause exfoliation and potential irritation, especially when combined. Using them simultaneously can overwhelm the skin barrier, leading to excessive dryness, redness, peeling, and sensitivity.
  • To avoid potential irritation, it is best to use these formulas on alternate nights. For example, use Formula 1 on Monday, Wednesday, Friday nights, and Formula 2 on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday nights, taking a break on Sunday, or adjusting based on your skin's tolerance.

Important Considerations:

  • pH Adjustment: It is crucial to check and adjust the pH of both formulas, especially Formula 2 with Azelaic Acid, to ensure the ingredients are effective and stable, and to minimize irritation. Azelaic Acid typically requires an acidic pH (around 4.5-5.5), and BHA is most effective at a low pH (around 3-4). Achieving a safe and effective pH when combining multiple actives is complex, which is another reason to use them separately.
  • Skin Tolerance: Start by introducing one formula at a time to see how your skin reacts before incorporating the second one on alternate nights. Monitor your skin for any signs of irritation.

Your revised formulas look well-considered based on your goals. However, please prioritize using them separately to protect your skin barrier.

Tags

Azelaic Acid Formulation Adjustment Ingredient Interaction Salicylic Acid Skin Irritation