Combining Whitening Ingredients, EDTA Compatibility, and Skin Barrier Essence Formulation

Question

I usually use Safe B3 and Gluco Bright in my formula, but I want to add 4MSK to break down melasma and freckles. Based on the information, 4MSK works by destroying accumulated Melanocytes under the skin. If I use all three ingredients together in a formula, will their mechanisms be redundant? Can 4MSK be used with Disodium EDTA? Regarding Skin-mimic, the information says it disperses in water but does not settle. If I make an essence with the following formula: Skin-mimic 5%, Mild Preserved Eco 1%, น้ำกลั่น 94%, will this work? Do I need to shake the bottle before use? Or should I add Pro Polymer to help it disperse in a gel? I want a light, watery texture like a "น้ำตบ", not a gel. My goal is to create a simple Skin Barrier product.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Questions Answered

Here are the answers to your formulation questions:

1. Combining Safe-B3, Gluco Bright, and 4MSK

Combining Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Gluco Bright (Acetyl Glucosamine), and 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) in one formula for treating melasma and freckles is a good approach and their mechanisms are complementary rather than redundant.

Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and Gluco Bright (Acetyl Glucosamine) work synergistically to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes (pigment granules) to skin cells and reduce melanin production. This helps prevent new dark spots from forming and reduces the intensity of existing ones.
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) works by targeting and helping to break down existing accumulated melanin in the skin.

By combining these ingredients, you are addressing hyperpigmentation through different pathways: reducing new pigment formation and helping to clear existing pigment. This multi-targeted approach can be more effective than using a single ingredient.

2. Using 4MSK with Disodium EDTA

Yes, you can use 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) with Disodium EDTA.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent that helps to bind metal ions in the water phase of a formula, improving stability and preventing potential discoloration or degradation caused by these ions.
4MSK is soluble in water. While 4MSK is an electrolyte and can potentially affect the viscosity of formulas thickened with certain polymers, using Disodium EDTA at its recommended low concentration (typically 0.1-0.2%) is standard practice for water-based formulations and is compatible with 4MSK.

Mix Disodium EDTA into the water phase first before adding other ingredients.

3. Skin-Barrier Essence Formulation

The proposed formula for a simple Skin Barrier essence is viable:

Skin-Barrier 5%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Distilled Water 94%

Skin-Barrier is a liposomal ceramide blend that disperses in water, forming a translucent or semi-transparent liquid. It is designed to restore the skin barrier. Mild Preserved Eco is a preservative that is also soluble in water (with proper mixing). Combining these in distilled water will create a watery essence texture ("น้ำตบ").

Shaking: While Skin-Barrier is described as not settling, it disperses rather than fully dissolves, so gently shaking the bottle before each use is a good practice to ensure the ceramides are evenly distributed throughout the essence for consistent application.
Pro Polymer: You should not add Pro Polymer if you want a watery essence. Pro Polymer is a gel maker and will thicken the formula into a gel, which is the opposite of the desired watery texture.

This formula provides a simple way to incorporate skin barrier restoring ingredients into a lightweight, watery format.