Combining Whitening & Smoothing Actives for Oily Skin (Semi-Cream/Serum)
Asked by: neab5678
On: October 22, 2015
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Is it possible to combine the following ingredients into a single formula for whitening, smoothing, and oily skin, aiming for a semi-cream/semi-serum texture with a final pH of 5-6?
- Alpha Arbutin
- Emblica Extract
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A)
- Lactic Acid
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
- Matrixyl 3000
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
- Bisabolol
Answer
Combining Your Whitening and Smoothing Ingredients
Yes, it is generally possible to combine the ingredients you listed into a single formula aimed at whitening, smoothing, and addressing oily skin concerns. However, creating a stable and effective semi-cream/semi-serum texture requires careful formulation.
Here's a breakdown of the ingredients and considerations:
- Alpha Arbutin: A key whitening agent that helps reduce melanin production for a brighter, more even skin tone.
- Emblica Extract: Known for its antioxidant properties and potential to help brighten the skin.
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A): This specific extract is excellent for reducing inflammation, redness, and controlling oiliness, which is beneficial for oily skin. While some forms of licorice are for whitening, Licochalcone A primarily offers soothing and oil-balancing benefits.
- Lactic Acid: An AHA that helps exfoliate dead skin cells, leading to smoother skin and improved texture. At a pH of 5-6, its exfoliating effect is less pronounced than at lower pH levels, but it still contributes to skin renewal and hydration.
- Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A stable form of Vitamin C with potent whitening and antioxidant properties.
- Matrixyl 3000: A peptide blend that supports collagen synthesis, helping to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): An antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage.
- Bisabolol: An anti-irritant that helps soothe the skin and can also gently contribute to a more even skin tone.
Formulation Considerations:
- Texture: To achieve a semi-cream/semi-serum texture, you will need an emulsification system to combine the water-soluble ingredients (Alpha Arbutin, Licorice Extract, Lactic Acid, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Matrixyl 3000) with the oil-soluble ingredients (Vitamin E Acetate, Bisabolol). Choosing lightweight emulsifiers and appropriate gelling agents or thickeners will help create a non-greasy feel suitable for oily skin.
- pH Level: As suggested, adjusting the final formula pH to around 5-6 is crucial. This range is suitable for the stability and efficacy of most of your listed active ingredients, including Alpha Arbutin, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Licorice Extract, Matrixyl 3000, and Bisabolol. Lactic Acid will also be stable, though its primary function shifts towards moisturizing and pH adjustment at this level. You will need to use a pH adjuster (like Sodium Hydroxide solution) to reach the target pH after all ingredients are combined.
- Compatibility: Note that Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is generally incompatible with Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Zinc PCA. Avoid adding these ingredients to this specific formula.
- Oily Skin Focus: The inclusion of Licorice Extract is beneficial for controlling oil. Ensure your base formula (emulsifiers, oils, thickeners) is designed to be lightweight and non-comedogenic.
- Additional Recommendations: Consider adding a humectant like Glycerin or Hyaluronic Acid for enhanced hydration without adding oiliness.
Creating this formula requires precise measurements, proper mixing techniques (especially for emulsification), and careful pH adjustment. Always perform small test batches first.
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