Comparing Ingredient Combinations for Water-Soluble Active Penetration
Question
If a formulation primarily uses water-soluble active ingredients, which combination is better for enhancing penetration into the skin:
Combination 1: 1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless) + VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether)
OR
Combination 2: Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) + Phospholipid
Which one provides better penetration?
Answer
Based on the information about these ingredients:
- 1,2-Hexanediol is a solvent and penetration enhancer that can help carry ingredients into the skin. It also offers humectant and preservative booster properties.
- VersaMoist™ (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether) is described as enhancing skin penetration because it can dissolve in both water and oil, helping to bridge the skin's layers.
- Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is a well-known solvent and penetration enhancer specifically noted as suitable for carrying water-soluble ingredients. It has a long history of use and clinical examples showing improved efficacy or reduced irritation for various active ingredients, including water-soluble ones like Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid.
- Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) is suitable for delivering both water- and oil-soluble ingredients. It forms liposomes which are shown in experiments to significantly improve formula absorption into the epidermis and dermis layers of the skin. It also helps moisturize the skin and supports the skin barrier.
Comparing the two combinations for enhancing the penetration of water-soluble active ingredients:
- The combination of 1,2-Hexanediol and VersaMoist™ provides general penetration enhancement and solvent properties, with VersaMoist™ helping to connect with both water and oil phases in the skin.
- The combination of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) and Phospholipid offers a more targeted approach for water-soluble actives with DMI being specifically suitable for this purpose and Phospholipid forming liposomes that are shown to enhance absorption into different skin layers. Phospholipid also provides additional benefits for the skin barrier.
Therefore, for enhancing the penetration of water-soluble active ingredients, the combination of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) and Phospholipid is likely to be more effective due to DMI's specific suitability for water-soluble actives and Phospholipid's proven ability to improve absorption through liposome formation, along with its skin barrier benefits.
