Comparing Serum Bases and Thickeners for Water Essence with Handheld Frother
Question
I want to make a serum or water essence using a handheld milk frother. My formula includes Pep-Coll, Argireline, Repair Activator, Galactomyces Ferment, and 1,2-Hexanediol.
Could you please compare Silky Serum Base, SiliSolve (PEG-10 Dimethicone), and Pro Polymer Silk (Polyquaternium-37) in terms of:
- Texture
- Ease of use with my equipment (handheld milk frother)
- Function of each ingredient
Also, is it possible to make a water essence by replacing Silky Serum Base with water, and how would that affect the formula, especially the absorption and feel?
Answer
Comparing Silky Serum Base, SiliSolve, and Pro Polymer Silk
Let's look at the differences in feel and ease of use for these three ingredients:
Silky Serum Base: This is a pre-made serum base designed to create a light, soft, and smooth serum that absorbs quickly into the skin. It provides a very light texture that disappears rapidly upon application, making it suitable for oily or normal skin types. It is relatively easy to use by gradually adding water to the base and stirring or blending. Adding 1% salt (NaCl) or Magnesium Sulfate is recommended for stability.
SiliSolve: This functions as an emulsifier, specifically a water-to-silicone binder (PEG-10 Dimethicone). Its primary role is to help combine water and silicone phases in a formulation. The resulting skin feel will largely depend on the types and amounts of silicones and other ingredients used in the formula, not SiliSolve itself. Mixing requires adding the water phase slowly to the silicone phase containing SiliSolve.
Pro Polymer Silk: This acts as a thickener or gel maker (Polyquaternium-37). It creates a gel texture that feels soft and smooth (silky) on the skin and helps reduce the stickiness often associated with water-based gels. When dry, it leaves a smooth, slippery feel. It can incorporate a small amount of oil or silicone (up to 10%). However, it requires a blender to properly form a gel texture and is not compatible with anionic ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid.
In terms of ease of use for your specific formula and equipment (handheld milk frother), Silky Serum Base is likely easier to work with compared to Pro Polymer Silk, which explicitly requires a blender for gel formation. SiliSolve is an emulsifier, not a base like the other two.
As the staff mentioned, you can use Silky Serum Base at 15% or Pro Polymer Silk at 1% in your formula.
Making a Water Essence (น้ำตบ)
Yes, you can modify your formula to create a water essence (น้ำตบ) by replacing the Silky Serum Base with water. A water essence is typically a very liquid, fast-absorbing product, which aligns with replacing the base with water.
Your current formula already contains several water-soluble active ingredients: Pep-Coll, Argireline, Repair Activator, Galactomyces Ferment, and 1,2-Hexanediol.
To ensure fast absorption and a light feel when using water as the base:
- The active ingredients you've chosen are water-soluble and should absorb well in a water base.
- 1,2-Hexanediol in your formula (at 3%) acts as a penetration enhancer, helping other ingredients absorb better into the skin. It also functions as a humectant, helping to retain moisture, and a preservative booster.
Replacing the Silky Serum Base with water will result in a thin, liquid consistency suitable for a water essence. The existing 1,2-Hexanediol will contribute to good absorption and a light feel without needing additional ingredients for this purpose.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye)