Understanding PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

These two ingredients are surfactants commonly used in cleansing products, particularly micellar waters. While they both contribute to cleansing, they have different primary functions and properties.

• PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (e.g., MakeUp-Wash™): This ingredient is an extra gentle detergent known for forming micelles in water. Micelles are tiny structures that can effectively capture and lift away makeup, dirt, and oil from the skin and pores without excessive rubbing. It is particularly suitable for makeup removal and provides moisturizing benefits, preventing the skin from feeling dry. It is considered highly effective for dissolving makeup.

• PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (e.g., Coco Wash™): This is a gentle, non-ionic surfactant derived from coconut oil. Its main strengths lie in providing a soft and smooth feel to the skin and offering moisturizing properties. While it has some cleansing ability, its cleaning efficiency is lower compared to other detergents. It is often used in makeup removers or other cleansing products to enhance skin feel and provide hydration, rather than as the primary cleansing agent.

Do they need to be used together?

No, they do not necessarily need to be used together. As you observed with Bioderma, a cleansing water can be highly effective using primarily PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides alone for makeup removal.

Why do some products use both?

Formulators might choose to use both ingredients in a single product for several reasons:

1. Enhanced Performance: Combining the strong makeup dissolving power of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides with the skin-conditioning and moisturizing benefits of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate can create a product that effectively removes makeup while leaving the skin feeling soft and hydrated.
2. Cost Optimization: As suggested in the forum reply, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate might be a less expensive ingredient. Using a blend of both could allow manufacturers to achieve a desired level of cleansing and skin feel at a potentially lower cost than using a higher concentration of only the more expensive ingredient.
3. Specific Formulation Goals: The specific ratio and combination can be adjusted to meet particular formulation goals regarding cleansing strength, skin feel, clarity, and stability.

Is PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides alone sufficient for waterproof makeup?

PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides is a very effective makeup remover due to its micellar action, which is designed to dissolve and lift away various types of makeup, including those that are more resistant to water. While its effectiveness on extremely heavy or stubborn waterproof makeup might vary depending on the concentration used and the specific makeup product, it is generally considered capable of removing makeup thoroughly. Your observation that Bioderma, which primarily uses this ingredient, effectively removes makeup supports its efficacy.

In summary, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides is the key ingredient for dissolving makeup in these types of cleansing waters, while PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate primarily enhances skin feel and provides moisture. Using both can offer a balance of effective cleansing and pleasant skin feel, or potentially help manage formulation costs.