Compatibility issues when mixing serums containing Sea Kelp, Vitamin B3, N-Acetyl-Glucosamine, DMAE, Hyaluronic Acid, and Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
Asked by: sittatta_
On: June 12, 2012
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I have a serum with the following ingredients and concentrations:
- Sea Kelp Bioferment 25%
- Vitamin B3 5%
- N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine 5%
- DMAE 3%
- Hyaluronic Acid 1%
I want to mix this with a 20% L-Ascorbic Acid serum. Is this combination suitable? What are the potential issues, and what alternative formula would you recommend?
Answer
Compatibility of Your Serums
Based on the information provided by the staff, mixing your current serum (containing Vitamin B3, Sea Kelp Bioferment, DMAE, N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, and Hyaluronic Acid) with a 20% Vitamin C serum (likely L-Ascorbic Acid) is not recommended due to compatibility issues.
Here's why:
- High Concentration of Sea Kelp: The staff noted that 25% Sea Kelp Bioferment is quite high and may not fully absorb into the skin. A concentration of around 10% is suggested.
- pH Incompatibility with L-Ascorbic Acid: A 20% L-Ascorbic Acid serum is highly acidic (pH ~3-3.5). Most ingredients in your existing mix, including Vitamin B3, DMAE, and N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, are not stable or effective at such a low pH. This combination could reduce the efficacy of these ingredients and potentially cause skin irritation. Only Sea Kelp is likely to remain stable in this acidic environment.
- Recommended Vitamin C Form: If you want to combine Vitamin C with ingredients like Vitamin B3 and N-Acetyl-D-Glucosamine, the staff suggests using Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP). This form of Vitamin C is more stable at a higher pH (optimal range is 6-7), which is more compatible with those ingredients.
- DMAE and Vitamin C MAP: DMAE is acidic, while Vitamin C MAP prefers a less acidic environment. Combining them can be problematic. If you include both, you might need to use a low concentration of DMAE, omit it, or carefully adjust the pH to 6.5-7.0.
The staff proposed a compatible and effective formula combining some of these ingredients:
- Sea Kelp 10%
- Vitamin B3 5%
- N-Acetyl-Glucosamine 5%
- Vitamin C MAP 10%
This adjusted formula avoids the pH conflicts encountered when mixing your original serum with a high-concentration L-Ascorbic Acid serum.
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