Compatibility of Actives with PE-1 Aqua and Layering Concerns

Asked by: shoppingist On: January 15, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding the use of PE-1 Aqua penetration enhancer:

  1. Can the following ingredients be used with PE-1 Aqua?

    • Creatine 100
    • Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine)
    • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5)
    • glycolic acid (AHA)
    • Salicylic Acid EZ™ (Water-soluble type)
  2. If I apply a Serum containing PE-1 Aqua as a penetration enhancer, leave it for half an hour, and then apply a moisturizer containing oil-soluble actives, will this affect the absorption efficiency of the oil-soluble actives in the moisturizer?

Answer

Subject: Active ingredients compatible/incompatible with PE-1 Aqua

Regarding the compatibility of active ingredients with PE-1 Aqua and your other questions:

Ingredients compatible with PE-1 Aqua:

  • Cell-Energy™ (Adenosine)
  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
  • Tomato Extract (Lycopene)
  • Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
  • French Pine Bark Extract 25 (Liquid)
  • Creatine 100
  • Wrinkle-Fill™ (L-Tyrosine)
  • Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5)
  • Glycolic acid (AHA)
  • Salicylic Acid EZ™ (Water-soluble type) - Your understanding that this can be used is correct.
  • WhiteCumin™ 2x (Turmeric Extract) - This was not listed as incompatible by the staff.

Ingredients incompatible with PE-1 Aqua:

  • Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract) - Reason: EGCG is not water-soluble.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 7.7%) - Reason: Madecassoside is not water-soluble.
  • BaicaVital™ (Scutellaria Baicalensis Extract) - Reason: Baicalin is not water-soluble.

PE-1 Aqua has issues with oil-soluble actives within the same formula because it dissolves them too well, reducing the flux that drives them into the skin. For water-soluble actives, it helps penetration. Using a serum with PE-1 Aqua and then a separate moisturizer with oil-soluble actives after 30 minutes should not cause issues, as the PE-1 Aqua from the serum is not dissolving the actives in the moisturizer.

Additional Questions:

  1. GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) stock: New stock is expected to arrive by this Saturday.
  2. Ceramide 2, 3, 6II: The company recommends considering Ceramide Complex.
  3. Cell-Energy™ (Adenosine) vs. Adenosine Triphosphate: Adenosine Triphosphate is unstable with light and heat in typical cosmetic formulas. Cell-Energy™ encapsulates Adenosine Triphosphate in liposomes to protect it from degradation and enhance skin absorption.