Compatibility of Ingredients in Acne/Oil Control Toner Formulation

Asked by: anuruk182s On: June 07, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like an analysis of the compatibility of the following ingredients for a Toner formulation:

  • Witch Hazel
  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin
  • Licorice Extract
  • Zinc PCA
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Timed-Release)
  • Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride)
  • Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble)
  • Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG)
  • Mandelic Acid
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
  • L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)

Are all these ingredients compatible? Thank you.

Answer

Analysis of Your Toner Formulation

This toner formulation is designed to address concerns associated with oily and acne-prone skin, combining several active ingredients with properties for oil control, pore appearance, anti-inflammation, and gentle exfoliation.

Here's a breakdown of the key ingredients and their potential compatibility:

  • Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) & Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin: These provide astringent properties to help tighten the appearance of pores and soothe the skin. The version with Allantoin adds extra anti-irritant benefits.
  • Licorice Extract: Known for its anti-inflammatory and potential skin brightening effects.
  • Zinc PCA: Effective in reducing excess oil (sebum) production, helping with acne, and supporting skin healing.
  • ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid: A form of BHA that helps exfoliate the skin, clear pores, and has anti-acne properties. The encapsulated form is designed to be water-soluble and potentially gentler.
  • Vitamin B6: Helps balance skin oiliness, can reduce the appearance of pores on oily skin, and has anti-inflammatory properties.
  • Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble): Possesses antibacterial properties beneficial for acne-prone skin.
  • Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract): Offers antioxidant benefits and can help reduce skin oiliness.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): Acts as a penetration enhancer, helping the other active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
  • L-Carnitine: Can help balance moisture, accelerate skin cell turnover gently (especially at pH 6-7), and reduce oiliness.
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: Provides preservation for the formula.

Compatibility Considerations:

Overall, many of these ingredients target similar concerns and can work synergistically. However, formulating this blend requires careful attention to ensure stability and avoid potential irritation:

  1. pH Levels: This is the most critical factor. Several ingredients have specific pH requirements for stability and efficacy:

    • Zinc PCA is most soluble/stable between pH 4-6.
    • Vitamin B6 is stable between pH 2-6 but deteriorates at higher pH. It also has a low pH itself (2-3) and will lower the formula's pH.
    • L-Carnitine is optimal between pH 3.5-8 (recommended 4-7) but its powder form has a higher pH (7.5-9.5).
    • Witch Hazel is acidic (pH 3-5).
    • Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble) is pH 4.0-6.5.
    • Mild Preserved Eco works between pH 4-9.
      Achieving a single pH that is optimal for all ingredients simultaneously is difficult. A target pH in the range of 4.0-5.5 would likely be the best compromise, supporting the stability of Zinc PCA, Tea Tree Oil, and L-Carnitine (within its stable range) and keeping Vitamin B6 reasonably stable, while also being suitable for Mild Preserved Eco and the acidic nature of Witch Hazel and Salicylic Acid.
  2. Heat Sensitivity: Vitamin B6, Licorice Extract, and Pure-EGCG are sensitive to heat and/or light. Mixing should be done at temperatures below 40°C, and these ingredients should be added in the final cooling phase.

  3. Solubility/Dispersion: Pure-EGCG has low water solubility and may require thorough blending or the assistance of DMI to disperse evenly in a water-based toner.

  4. Potential for Irritation: The combination of multiple active ingredients, particularly Salicylic Acid and the penetration enhancement from DMI, could potentially cause skin irritation, especially for sensitive skin types. Careful consideration of the concentration of each active ingredient is necessary.

  5. Storage: Due to the sensitivity of some ingredients (Vitamin B6, Pure-EGCG, Licorice Extract), storing the final product in a cool, dark place, or even refrigerating it, would help maintain its potency over time.

Conclusion:

The ingredients you've selected form a powerful toner aimed at managing oily and acne-prone skin. The combination of oil controllers, anti-inflammatories, and exfoliants is well-aligned for this purpose. However, successful formulation hinges on precise pH adjustment and careful mixing techniques to ensure the stability and efficacy of all components while minimizing the risk of irritation. It is recommended to perform stability testing on the final formula.