Compatibility of Laureth-23 and Reshape Gel in Formulation

Asked by: wondersea1 On: June 27, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a formulation that contains both water and oil phases.

  1. Can I use Laureth-23 as an emulsifier to combine the water and oil phases?
  2. Can I also use Reshape Gel in this formulation?
  3. If so, when should I add Reshape Gel? Should I mix it into the water phase and keep it aside, or add it last after combining the water and oil phases?

Answer

Using Laureth-23 and Reshape Gel Together

You are planning to use Laureth-23 as an emulsifier and Reshape Gel as a thickener in a formulation containing both water and oil phases.

  • Laureth-23 is a solid emulsifier that needs to be heated in the oil phase to 60-70°C to melt and incorporate properly before mixing with the water phase.
  • Reshape Gel is a gel-forming agent for the water phase. It should be added to the water phase at a temperature around 40°C (not exceeding 50°C). Crucially, Reshape Gel is damaged by prolonged heat above 50°C.

Due to the significant difference in required processing temperatures (Laureth-23 needs 60-70°C, while Reshape Gel is damaged above 50°C), these two ingredients are not compatible for use together in a standard hot process emulsification where both phases are heated and combined. Using Laureth-23 as directed would expose Reshape Gel to temperatures that would damage its gel-forming properties.

Therefore, you should choose an emulsifier that is compatible with the temperature requirements of Reshape Gel, or choose a different thickener if you wish to use Laureth-23.

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