Compatibility of Perfect-C™ and Vitamin B3 in Serum Formulation and Alternative Whitening Ingredients

Question

I saw a formula for a serum containing:

Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 10%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 5%
Reshape Gel 5%
Water 79%
Phenoxyethanol (Preservative) 1%

Will this formula have complexation issues?

If I cannot apply products containing Vitamin C and Vitamin B3 at different times (because my current cream has B3 and I have a Vitamin C 10% serum), can I apply the Vitamin C product first, wait about 5 minutes for it to absorb, and then apply the product with B3? (I am unsure about how long to wait for absorption).

Alternatively, if I use a serum with L-ascorbic acid as the main ingredient at night, can I apply it, wait 30 minutes (as I've heard this allows the skin to adjust from the acid to a balanced state), and then apply a product containing B3?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Perfect-C™ and Vitamin B3 Compatibility and Alternative Whitening Ingredients

You are interested in using Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) in a serum formulation and have questions about its compatibility with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and alternative whitening ingredients.

Perfect-C™ and Vitamin B3 should not be used together in the same formula because they can undergo a reaction called complexation. This reaction causes both ingredients to degrade, significantly reducing their effectiveness for skin brightening and other benefits.

If you wish to use both ingredients in your skincare routine, it is recommended to use them in separate formulations or apply them at different times of the day (e.g., one in the morning and the other at night) to minimize potential interaction and ensure you get the full benefits from each ingredient.

For alternative whitening ingredients that can be effectively combined with Perfect-C™ in a serum formulation, consider ingredients that work through different mechanisms or are known to be compatible with oil-soluble Vitamin C derivatives. Some suitable options include:

Phenylethyl Resorcinol: This ingredient is a powerful tyrosinase inhibitor that helps reduce melanin production. It is often formulated alongside Vitamin C derivatives and is generally well-tolerated.
ChromaWhite™ (Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate): Similar to Perfect-C™, ChromaWhite™ is oil-soluble and works by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It is known for its high stability and compatibility with various skincare ingredients, making it a good partner for Perfect-C™.
Z-White™ (Zinc Glycinate): This ingredient targets the initial stages of melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activators. Its distinct mechanism allows it to work synergistically with other whitening agents like Vitamin C derivatives.

These ingredients can help enhance the overall whitening and dark spot reduction effects of your serum when used in conjunction with Perfect-C™, without the compatibility issues encountered with Vitamin B3.