Composition, Usage, and Suitability of Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol for Face Cream
Question
Could you please provide details on the composition and recommended usage rates for Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol?
Specifically:
- What is the composition of Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20), including any percentage breakdown of its constituents, and what is its recommended usage rate in cosmetics?
- What is the composition of Cetearyl Alcohol (specifically the 50/50 and 30/70 types), including the percentage breakdown of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol, and what is its recommended usage rate in cosmetics?
- Can Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol be used together alone to create a face cream formulation?
Answer
Composition and Usage of Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
- Composition: The primary component is Polysorbate 20, as indicated by the INCI Name. Product descriptions do not typically provide a percentage breakdown of the chemical precursors (like sorbitol, ethylene oxide, and lauric acid) that react to form Polysorbate 20. It is identified as the substance Polysorbate 20 itself. The Super-Refined version (HiPure™ PS20) undergoes processing to control impurities like 1,4-Dioxane, Ethylene Oxide, and Ethylene Glycols to very low levels.
- Percentage Composition: The product is identified as Polysorbate 20. A percentage breakdown of its constituent chemical groups is not provided in the product information.
- Recommended Usage Rate: For cosmetic applications, the recommended usage rate is 1-20%.
Cetearyl Alcohol
- Composition: Cetearyl Alcohol is a blend of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol. There are different ratios available.
- Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50) is composed of 50% Cetyl Alcohol and 50% Stearyl Alcohol.
- Cetearyl Alcohol (30/70) is composed of 30% Cetyl Alcohol and 70% Stearyl Alcohol.
- Percentage Composition: The percentage composition depends on the specific type of Cetearyl Alcohol used (e.g., 50% Cetyl Alcohol and 50% Stearyl Alcohol for the 50/50 type).
- Recommended Usage Rate: For cosmetic applications, the recommended usage rate is 1-20%.
Important Note for Face Cream Formulation
As the staff reply indicated, using only Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol is not sufficient to create a stable face cream. These ingredients serve different purposes:
- Polysorbate 20 is primarily a solubilizer (helps dissolve oils/fragrances in water) or a co-emulsifier.
- Cetearyl Alcohol is a thickener and an emollient (helps moisturize by coating the skin). It helps increase the viscosity and richness of a cream but cannot bind water and oil on its own.
To create a face cream, you will need a primary Cream Maker (Emulsifier) that can effectively bind the water phase and oil phase together to form a stable emulsion. Cetearyl Alcohol is typically used in conjunction with a Cream Maker to adjust the texture and thickness of the final product. Applying only Polysorbate 20 and Cetearyl Alcohol directly to the skin is not recommended and will not result in a functional cream.
You will need a complete formula that includes a primary emulsifier, water phase ingredients, oil phase ingredients, and potentially other additives like preservatives, active ingredients, etc.
Related Products Mentioned
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)