Concentrated Cream Formula for Acne, Melasma, Dark Spots, Sun Protection on Oily Skin, and Addressing Pilling

Asked by: jektie888 On: December 30, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have oily skin with clogged acne, melasma, and freckles. My skin is not fair, and I work outdoors but stay in air-conditioned rooms, frequently exposed to the sun. I'm looking for a concentrated cream formula that addresses these issues (acne, clogged pores, melasma, dark spots, brightening) while providing moisture and sun protection. I also experienced a previous cream pilling; why does this happen? How long will it take to see results (e.g., within a week)?

Answer

Concentrated Cream Formula for Acne, Melasma, Dark Spots, Brightening, Sun Protection, and Moisture

Thank you for your question regarding a concentrated cream formula to address multiple skin concerns, including acne, clogged pores, melasma, dark spots, and dullness, while providing moisture and sun protection for oily skin that is frequently exposed to the sun and air conditioning. You also asked about why your previous cream was pilling.

Regarding seeing results in just one week, it's important to understand that achieving significant, safe, and lasting improvements for concerns like melasma, dark spots, and acne typically requires consistent use over a longer period. Based on scientific evidence and general dermatological guidelines, you can expect to start seeing noticeable results from effective ingredients in about 4-12 weeks, as mentioned in previous replies.

Here is a suggested concentrated cream formula designed to target your specific skin needs:

Suggested Formula Ingredients:

  • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Provides lightweight hydration suitable for oily skin.
  • Salicylic Acid (BHA): Helps to exfoliate the skin and dissolve clogged pores, addressing acne and blackheads.
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Effective in reducing acne, controlling oil production, and helping to fade dark spots and melasma.
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): A versatile ingredient that reduces inflammation, helps control oil, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves skin tone and dark spots.
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): A powerful skin brightening agent that targets dark spots and helps create a more even skin tone.
  • Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Specifically effective in treating melasma and reducing the appearance of stubborn dark spots.
  • Zinc Oxide (Ultra-Fine): Provides broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB rays, essential for preventing worsening of melasma and dark spots, especially with frequent sun exposure.
  • Disodium EDTA: Acts as a chelating agent to improve formula stability by neutralizing metal ions.
  • Mild Preserved™ COS: A broad-spectrum preservative to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety and shelf life.

Approximate Usage Rates:

  • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Adjust quantity based on desired final texture (e.g., 60-70%)
  • Salicylic Acid (BHA): 1-2%
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 5-10%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5-10%
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 1-2%
  • Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 3%
  • Zinc Oxide (Ultra-Fine): 5-10%
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
  • Mild Preserved™ COS: 0.75-1.5%

  • (Note: Total percentage of ingredients should add up to 100%)*

General Mixing Instructions:

  1. Dissolve Salicylic Acid (BHA) in a suitable solvent (e.g., Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol) first.
  2. In the water phase, add Disodium EDTA, then Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, and disperse Zinc Oxide. Heat gently if needed to help dissolve/disperse.
  3. Combine the dissolved Salicylic Acid with the water phase.
  4. Add the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base and mix well until uniform.
  5. Once the mixture has cooled below 40°C, add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) and Alpha Arbutin. Mix thoroughly.
  6. Add Mild Preserved™ COS and mix until fully incorporated.
  7. Check and adjust the pH to be within the range of 3.5-6.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of the active ingredients.

Addressing Pilling (ครีมเป็นขุย):

Pilling, or the cream rolling up into small balls or flakes on the skin, can happen for several reasons:

  • Applying too much product: Using a thick layer can prevent it from absorbing properly.
  • Not allowing absorption: Applying other products or makeup before the cream has fully absorbed can cause pilling.
  • Ingredient interactions: Some combinations of ingredients or high concentrations can form a film that rolls up when rubbed.
  • Exfoliation: Sometimes, pilling can be dead skin cells being exfoliated, especially when using ingredients like Salicylic Acid.

To minimize pilling with this formula:

  • Apply only a thin layer of the cream.
  • Gently pat or spread the cream onto the skin instead of rubbing vigorously.
  • Allow the cream to absorb completely (give it a few minutes) before applying any other products on top.
  • Ensure all ingredients are fully dissolved and well-mixed during preparation.

Remember to always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying the cream to your entire face, especially with a concentrated formula containing multiple active ingredients. You may need to adjust the concentration of certain actives based on your skin's tolerance.

If you plan to sell this product, a microbial challenge test is required to ensure the preservative system is effective for your specific formula.

We hope this detailed formula and information are helpful for you!