Cooling agent and usage level for lip oil

Asked by: sarisa.200347 On: May 26, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

If I want to use a cooling agent in Lip oil, please recommend an ingredient, along with the % usage in lip oil.

Answer

Recommendation for adding a cooling sensation to lip oil

For an anhydrous lip oil, the most suitable catalog-grounded option is WS-23 Cooling Agent (INCI: Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide). It is a white powder cooling agent that can dissolve in oils, so it fits an oil-based lip oil better than cooling ingredients that require a water or highly polar phase.

Suggested use level in lip oil

Target Suggested approach
First lab trial / mild cooling Start at 0.10–0.20%
Stronger cooling Increase gradually only after sensory testing
Upper catalog range 0.50% is within the catalog range, but should be treated as a strong level for lip oil and confirmed by taste, stinging/irritation, and stability testing

Because the full lip oil formula was not provided, 0.10–0.20% should be treated as a practical starting point, not a guaranteed final level. Lips are more sensitive than normal skin, so avoid jumping directly to the highest level unless a strong cooling/tingling effect is intended and the finished formula has passed testing.

How to incorporate

  1. Weigh WS-23 accurately according to the trial percentage.
  2. Premix it into a small portion of the lip oil base or a compatible emollient oil.
  3. Mix until the premix is clear and uniform. WS-23 must be fully dissolved before filling.
  4. If dissolution is slow, warm the oil phase as a lab-trial processing aid to about 45–50°C, then mix until fully dissolved.
  5. Cool with gentle mixing before adding heat-sensitive materials such as fragrance/flavor, volatile materials, delicate oils, or antioxidants.
  6. Add the clear premix back into the main batch and mix until uniform.

Checks before confirming the final %

  • Check the product after cooling and after low-temperature storage for crystals, haze, sediment, or graininess.
  • Check lip feel for cooling intensity, tingling, stinging, irritation, and taste.
  • Confirm that the base has enough solvent capacity; visible crystals usually mean incomplete dissolution, excessive level for that oil blend, or recrystallization during storage.
  • Cooling agents create a sensory cooling effect; they do not physically lower the temperature of the lips.
  • Treat this as a cosmetic-use recommendation only; do not position the material as ingestible, therapeutic, lip-plumping, healing, or anti-inflammatory based on this data.

Practical starting recommendation: begin with 0.10–0.20% WS-23 Cooling Agent in the lip oil, then increase gradually only if stronger cooling is required, with 0.50% reserved as a strong level that needs finished-product confirmation.

Relevant References

Sources supporting the key technical claims in this answer

WS-23 Cooling Agent (Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide)
MySkinRecipes MySkinRecipes product catalog

Supports product identity, oil solubility, catalog use range, and processing guidance.

MySkinRecipes catalog context for WS-23 Cooling Agent (Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide): usage 0.1–0.5%, oil/glycol/ethyl alcohol solubility, optional warming around 50°C to accelerate dissolution.