Cooling Agents for Water-based and Oil-based Products

Asked by: dorothy-pop On: April 18, 2023 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Seeking recommendations for suitable cooling agents for both water-based body essence/lotion and oil-based body oil formulations, specifically asking about Menthol Water Soluble vs. Long-Cool™ for the water phase and requesting alternatives for stronger cooling in the oil phase after Menthone Glycerin Acetal at 5% was insufficient.

Answer

Cooling Agents for Body Essence and Body Oil

Here are recommendations for cooling agents based on your product types:

1. Water-based Body Essence

For a water-based formula like a body essence, both Menthol Water Soluble and Long-Cool™ (Encapsulated Menthol) are suitable as they are water-soluble.

  • Menthol Water Soluble (20% Menthol, Liquid): This provides a standard cooling sensation with a menthol scent. It offers a more immediate cool feeling.
  • Long-Cool™ (Encapsulated Menthol): This uses encapsulation technology to release menthol over a longer period. The cooling sensation is prolonged and may feel less intensely cold initially compared to standard menthol, but it lasts longer.

Choosing between them depends on the desired cooling profile: choose Menthol Water Soluble for a quick, noticeable cool, or Long-Cool™ for a sustained cooling effect. You might also consider Water-Cool™, which is a blend of cooling agents designed for long-lasting cooling in water-based formulas, or Menthyl PCA, another water-soluble option providing long-lasting cool.

2. Oil-based Body Oil

Since your formula is oil-based and you found that Menthone Glycerin Acetal at 5% was not sufficiently cooling, you need oil-soluble alternatives.

Suitable oil-soluble cooling agents include:

  • CoCool™ (Menthol+Menthyl Lactate): This is an oil-soluble blend of cooling agents that provides a cooling sensation on the skin. It can be used at a rate of 0.1-5%.
  • WS-23 Cooling Agent (Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide): This is another oil-soluble cooling agent for skin products. It is typically used at a lower rate of 0.1-0.5%.
  • Menthyl PCA: While also water-soluble, Menthyl PCA is soluble in oil and glycols (with heat) and provides a long-lasting cooling effect on the skin. It has a higher potential usage rate of 1-20%, which might help you achieve a stronger cooling sensation than you experienced previously.

Considering your need for more cooling, Menthyl PCA with its higher maximum usage rate and long-lasting effect could be a good option to explore for your body oil.