Correct Mixing Procedure for Sunscreen Formulations (Gel and Cream)

Question

I am trying to create two sunscreen formulations using the following ingredients: Distilled water, Aloe Vera Extract, MatteSilica, SPF Protect Ultra™, LipidSoft™ Lite, Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate), WaterGuard, and Mild Preserved™ (Ethylhexylglycerin).

For the first formulation, I want a gel texture using Pro Polymer.

For the second, I want a cream texture using Light Cream Maker.

My previous attempts resulted in separation and clumping. Could you please provide the correct mixing procedure for both formulations, specifying how to incorporate Pro Polymer and Light Cream Maker and when to add the preservative?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the information provided, the issue with your sunscreen formulations is likely due to the mixing procedure, not the ingredients themselves. The staff response explains that ingredients need to be combined in specific phases (water or oil) depending on the emulsifier or thickener used.

Here's a summary of what went wrong and the correct way to mix your formulations:

What went wrong:
You added ingredients in a sequence without separating them into water and oil phases and incorporating the thickener/emulsifier correctly into its designated phase before combining the phases. This resulted in the ingredients not emulsifying or thickening properly, leading to separation and clumping.

Correct Mixing Procedure:

You need to divide your ingredients into a water phase and an oil phase first.

Water Phase Ingredients:
- Distilled water
- Aloe Vera Extract
- MatteSilica
Oil Phase Ingredients:
- SPF Protect Ultra™
- LipidSoft™ Lite
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
- WaterGuard

The Mild Preserved™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) should be added at the very end.

For the Gel Formulation (using Pro Polymer):

Combine the Water Phase ingredients (Distilled water, Aloe Vera Extract, MatteSilica).
Add Pro Polymer to the Water Phase.
Mix or blend the Water Phase with Pro Polymer until a gel texture is formed.
Combine the Oil Phase ingredients (SPF Protect Ultra™, LipidSoft™ Lite, Vitamin E, WaterGuard).
Slowly add the Oil Phase into the gelled Water Phase while mixing or blending until a uniform cream texture is achieved.
Add Mild Preserved™ and mix well.

For the Cream Formulation (using Light Cream Maker):

Combine the Oil Phase ingredients (SPF Protect Ultra™, LipidSoft™ Lite, Vitamin E, WaterGuard).
Add Light Cream Maker to the Oil Phase.
Mix or blend the Oil Phase with Light Cream Maker until a white cream texture is formed.
Combine the Water Phase ingredients (Distilled water, Aloe Vera Extract, MatteSilica).
Slowly add the Water Phase into the creamed Oil Phase while mixing or blending until a uniform cream texture is achieved.
Add Mild Preserved™ and mix well.

Following these steps should help you achieve a stable and well-mixed sunscreen formulation.