Understanding Cosmetic Formulas and Calculations

You're asking about how to convert the percentages in the formula into actual amounts to mix. This is a common question for beginners!

In cosmetic formulation, percentages are almost always given by weight (w/w), not volume (v/v). This is because ingredients have different densities, meaning 1 ml of one ingredient will likely weigh differently than 1 ml of another. Weighing ensures accuracy and consistency in your formula.

Here's how to calculate the amounts:

1. Decide on your total batch size by weight. For example, if you want to make 100 grams of the product.
2. Multiply the total batch weight by the percentage of each ingredient (as a decimal).

Let's use the original formula 2 as an example, assuming you want to make a 100-gram batch:

• Rose Petal Water: 41% of 100g = 0.41 * 100g = 41 grams
• Rose Water (Rosa Damascena): 41% of 100g = 0.41 * 100g = 41 grams
• Double Hyaluron Liquid: 10% of 100g = 0.10 * 100g = 10 grams
• Vitamin B3: 4% of 100g = 0.04 * 100g = 4 grams
• n-acetyl glucosamine: 4% of 100g = 0.04 * 100g = 4 grams

The total weight is 41 + 41 + 10 + 4 + 4 = 100 grams.

To mix the formula, you should weigh out the calculated amount of each ingredient using a scale.

• Regarding your question about Vitamin B3: If you buy 10 grams of Vitamin B3, that's the total amount in the package. If your formula requires 4% and you're making a 100g batch, you will weigh out 4 grams from that 10-gram package. You don't measure the volume of the 10g package first.
• Regarding Rose Petal Water and Rose Water: While these are liquids and their density might be close to water (where 1g ≈ 1ml), it is still best practice for accuracy to weigh them using a scale according to the calculated grams required for your batch size.
• Yes, this method of calculating the required weight based on the percentage of the total batch weight and then weighing the ingredient applies to all components in the formula, whether they are liquids or powders.

Effects of the Original Formula (Formula 2)

Based on the ingredients in the original formula:

• Rose Petal Water and Rose Water (Rosa Damascena): These floral waters are extracted through steam distillation. They are known for their soothing properties, helping to calm the skin and provide hydration. They also have a pleasant natural fragrance and possess some antiseptic and antibacterial qualities. They can help restore tired skin and prevent irritation.
• Double Hyaluron Liquid: This ingredient contains two molecular sizes of Hyaluronic Acid (Standard and Nano). Hyaluronic Acid is a powerful humectant, meaning it draws moisture into the skin. The different molecular sizes help hydrate both the surface and deeper layers of the skin, leading to soft, moist skin and helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles caused by dehydration.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Vitamin B3 is a multi-functional ingredient. It helps reduce wrinkles, improves the appearance of redness and dark spots (hyperpigmentation), boosts skin hydration by stimulating ceramide production, strengthens the skin barrier, helps control oiliness (sebum), and can improve the appearance of dark circles under the eyes.
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): When used with Vitamin B3, Acetyl Glucosamine acts as a whitening agent and helps reduce dark spots. It also encourages the skin to produce its own Hyaluronic Acid, contributing to skin softness, moisture, and wrinkle reduction. It can also help with gentle exfoliation and reducing acne breakouts.

Combining these ingredients, the original formula likely aims to provide significant hydration, improve skin tone and reduce dark spots, strengthen the skin barrier, and offer some anti-aging benefits, while also being potentially helpful for oily or acne-prone skin due to the Vitamin B3.

Modified Formula and Ingredient Substitution

You asked about substituting one of the rose waters with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera). This substitution is possible, as shown in the modified formula discussed in the thread.

The modified formula suggested is:

• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) 41%
• Rose Water (Rosa Damascena) 41%
• Double Hyaluron Liquid 6%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
• GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) 4%
• 1,2-Hexanediol 3%

Substituting Rose Petal Water with Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) changes the formula's profile. Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate is known for revitalizing the skin, improving texture, hydration, and potentially offering brightening and anti-aging effects, similar to its popular use in skincare.

The modified formula also makes other adjustments:

• Double Hyaluron Liquid is reduced from 10% to 6%. The forum reply suggests this might be better for oily skin, as 10% can feel heavy. The recommended usage rate for normal or generally dehydrated skin is 3-5%, while dry skin can use 5-10%, and very dry skin 10-20%. So, 6% is still within a range suitable for normal to dry skin.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) is increased from 4% to 5%. This is still within the recommended usage rate of 1-10% (with the Safe-B3 type being usable up to 10% without significant flushing). This higher percentage could enhance the benefits of Vitamin B3 mentioned earlier (whitening, anti-acne, barrier strengthening).
• 1,2-Hexanediol is added at 3%. Based on its description, 1,2-Hexanediol acts as a solvent, a humectant (helps retain water), a penetration enhancer, and importantly, a preservative booster. Using it at 3% can significantly improve the effectiveness of other preservatives.

The forum discussion also noted that adding 1,2-Hexanediol might not be necessary because Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Rose Water, and Double Hyaluron Liquid already contain preservatives from the manufacturer (Phenoxyethanol in Rose Water and Double Hyaluron Liquid, and Butylene Glycol in the standard type of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate). However, adding 1,2-Hexanediol at 3% can still provide the additional benefits of water-binding and penetration enhancement, and it would certainly contribute to microbial stability, potentially allowing for a lower concentration of other preservatives if needed, or providing extra assurance.