Cosmetic Formula Review: Ingredient Compatibility and Adjustment
Question
I have a cosmetic formula and would like feedback on its ingredient compatibility, usage percentages, and mixing instructions. The formula contains the following ingredients and percentages:
- Apple Stem Cell Extract: 5%
- Ceramide Complex: 5%
- Soy Extract: 5%
- WhiteCumin™ 2x: 5%
- Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
- Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 5%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.20%
- Light Cream Maker™: 1%
- Phenoxyethanol: 1%
I am aiming for a serum/cream consistency. My skin is not very dry. Please advise on any issues and how to adjust the formula.
Answer
Formula Review
Thank you for providing your formula. I have reviewed the ingredients and their recommended usage based on the product descriptions.
Here is some feedback on your proposed formula:
Ingredient Compatibility
According to the product descriptions, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) and Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) cannot be used together in the same formula. You must choose one of these ingredients or formulate them into separate products (e.g., a Vitamin B3 serum and a Perfect-C™ cream).
Both are excellent ingredients, but they are incompatible when combined directly in a single formulation.
Ingredient Percentages
Let's look at the percentages you used in your second proposed formula (which removed the สารสกัดมะหาด):
- Apple Stem Cell Extract: 5% is within the recommended range (0.5-5%).
- Ceramide Complex: 5% is within the recommended range (3-10%). The description suggests 5% is suitable for aging/dry/wrinkled skin, while 10% is recommended for sensitive/allergic skin. Since you mentioned your skin is "not very dry," 5% should be sufficient for barrier support and hydration.
- Soy Extract: 5% is within the recommended range (1-5%), though the recommendation is typically 2-3%. Using 5% is acceptable.
- WhiteCumin™ 2x: 5% is slightly above the recommended maximum usage rate of 4%. It is advisable to reduce this to 4% or less for optimal results and stability.
- Vitamin B3: 5% is within the recommended range (1-10%, recommended 5%).
- Perfect-C™: 5% is within the recommended range (1-10%, recommended 5%).
- Disodium EDTA: 0.20% is within the recommended range (0.1-0.2%, recommended 0.2%). This is important for stabilizing the formula, especially with ingredients sensitive to metal ions.
- Light Cream Maker™: 1% is within the recommended range (0.5-3%, recommended 1-1.5%).
- Phenoxyethanol: 1% is within the recommended range (0.5-1.0%).
Mixing Instructions
Based on the product descriptions, here are some general mixing considerations:
- Disodium EDTA: Should be mixed in the water phase before other ingredients.
- Ceramide Complex: Should be mixed in water first until it turns milky before combining with other phases. Mix below 40°C.
- Vitamin B3: Mix in the water phase. Avoid prolonged heat. Optimal pH is 4.0-7.0.
- WhiteCumin™ 2x: Mix in the water phase.
- Soy Extract: Mix in the final step. Avoid heat. pH should be 5-7.
- Apple Stem Cell Extract: Mix in the final step. Temperature must be below 60°C. pH should be 3.5-6.5.
- Perfect-C™: Mix in the oil phase or cream maker. pH should be 5.0-5.5.
- Light Cream Maker™: Can be mixed in the oil phase or water phase. Avoid spinning above 2500 rpm.
- Phenoxyethanol: Can be mixed in any step, but temperature must be below 80°C.
You will need to adjust your mixing steps significantly to accommodate the requirements of the ingredients you choose to keep, especially considering the incompatibility of Vitamin B3 and Perfect-C™.
Recommendation
Given the incompatibility, you need to decide whether Vitamin B3 or Perfect-C™ is more crucial for your desired results.
- If you prioritize the benefits of Vitamin B3 (wrinkles, redness/dark spots, moisture, barrier strength, oil control, acne), remove Perfect-C™ from the formula.
- If you prioritize the benefits of Perfect-C™ (superior absorption, whitening, antioxidant, collagen stimulation), remove Vitamin B3 from the formula.
You should also reduce the percentage of WhiteCumin™ 2x to 4% or less.
Regarding the staff's question, providing details on the results you experienced with your first formula (even with the ingredient incompatibility) would help them understand what aspects of the formula were working for you and what needed improvement. This feedback is valuable for refining the formula further.
Related Products Mentioned
Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Light Cream Maker™
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Disodium EDTA
Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)