Cosmetic Formulas for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin: Review and Adjustment

Question

I would like to inquire about several cosmetic formulas I have drafted, based on my skin type (oily, dehydrated, dull, prone to clogged pores, blackheads, large pores, sensitive) and the need to wear heavy makeup for work.

Cleansing Formula (based on cleansing oil, rinse-off):
- Makeup wash (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) 10%
- Grape Seed Oil 10%
- Vitamin B5 5%
- DMAE 5%
- Butylene Glycol 5%
- Zinc PCA 1%
- Water remaining
- Question: Should I add, reduce, cut, or add anything to this formula?
Face Wash Gel for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin:
- Coco-Betain 30%
- Glycerin (Vegetable) 30%
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 6.6%
- Lauryl Glucoside 5%
- Methylsulfonylmethane (Pure MSM) 5%
- Creamy Foamer 0.5%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Water remaining
- Question: Please review this formula.
BHA Toner:
- Salicylic Acid EZ (water-soluble type) 10%
- Vitamin B3 5%
- Aloe Vera Extract 2%
- Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin (to replace remaining water)
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Question: Can I use Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin to replace all the remaining water in this formula?
Whitening and Moisturizing Bar Soap:
- Question: Which ingredients from your company can be added to a bar soap, specifically including:
  - Sodium Lactate (60% liquid) 20%
  - Grape Seed Oil (Refined) 1%
  - Shea Butter (ultra soft) 10%
  - Coconut Oil 1%
"Nam Tob" (Toner/Essence):
- Double Hyaluronic liquid 5%
- Alpha Arbutin 2%
- Kojic Acid Dipalmitate 2%
- Zinc PCA 1%
- Phenoxyethanol 1%
- Water remaining
- Question: Please review this formula.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Here is the feedback on your formulas based on the staff's response:

1. Cleansing Formula (Rinse-off)

The staff recommends removing skin conditioning ingredients (like Vitamin B5, DMAE, Butylene Glycol, Zinc PCA) from this rinse-off formula. Ingredients that are washed off quickly provide minimal benefit to the skin.
Suggested simplified formula:
- MakeUp-Wash™ (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) 10%
- Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 10%
- Water 79%
- Phenoxyethanol SA 1%

2. Face Wash Gel for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin

Similar to the cleansing formula, the staff recommends adjusting this formula to include only the cleansing agents. Skin conditioning ingredients offer little benefit in a product that is rinsed off immediately.
Market products often include conditioning ingredients at very low concentrations mainly for marketing purposes.

3. BHA Toner

The staff finds this formula suitable.
Suggestion: Consider adding Pro Polymer at 0.5% to slightly thicken the texture, making it easier to apply like a light gel-serum.

4. Whitening and Moisturizing Bar Soap

The staff lacks detailed knowledge regarding bar soap formulation and cannot provide specific recommendations for adding the listed ingredients.
Suggestion: If moisturizing is a key goal, consider formulating a liquid soap instead and adjusting the pH to 5.5, which allows for much better skin conditioning benefits compared to alkaline bar soap.

5. "Nam Tob" (Toner/Essence)

Kojic Acid Dipalmitate cannot be mixed into this formula as it requires dissolving in a cream or oil base.
Other ingredients in your list can be mixed without issues.
Suggestions:
- Consider adding Pro Polymer at 0.2% to give the liquid a slightly thicker texture for easier application.
- You may also consider adding other types of moisturizers.

Mixing Order:

The staff did not provide a detailed mixing order for all formulas. However, for water-based formulas like the Toner and "Nam Tob", a general mixing procedure is as follows:

Combine the water phase ingredients (Water, water-soluble ingredients like Vitamin B3, Zinc PCA, Hyaluronic Acid, extracts).
If using a thickener like Pro Polymer, disperse it in the water phase and neutralize according to the product's instructions to create the desired texture.
Add other remaining ingredients (e.g., Salicylic Acid EZ, Alpha Arbutin).
Add the preservative (Phenoxyethanol/Phenoxyethanol SA).
Mix thoroughly after each addition until homogeneous.

For the simplified cleansing formula (Formula 1 suggestion), you can typically mix the surfactants (MakeUp-Wash™, Coco Wash™) with water, then add the preservative.

I hope this summary of the staff's feedback is helpful!