Cosmetic Formulation Basics

1. Understanding Usage Percentage

The recommended usage percentage (e.g., 3%) for an ingredient is calculated based on the total weight of your final formula. It is not based on the volume in a syringe or just a portion of the ingredients.

For example, if you are making 100 grams of a cream and the recommendation is to use an ingredient at no more than 3%, you would use a maximum of 3 grams of that ingredient (3% of 100 grams).

This calculation requires precise measurement by weight, not estimation by volume. Using a scale is essential for accurate formulation.

2. Mixing Powder Extracts in the Water-Phase

When instructions say to mix a powder extract in the "water-phase," it means you should dissolve or disperse the powder in the water portion of your formula.

For cosmetic formulations, it is best to use distilled water or deionized water. These types of water have impurities removed, which helps ensure the stability and safety of your product. Filtered water or tap water may contain minerals and microorganisms that can affect the quality and shelf life of your cosmetic product.

3. Choosing Between Emulsifier and Thickener for Oil and Powder Formulas

The choice between using an emulsifier (สารสร้างเนื้อครีม) and a thickener (สารสร้างเนื้อเจล) depends on the type of product you want to create and whether your formula includes a water phase.

• Emulsifiers: If your formula contains both oil-based ingredients (like oils) and water-based ingredients, and you want to combine them into a stable mixture like a cream or lotion, you must use an emulsifier. Emulsifiers help oil and water mix together and prevent them from separating. Examples include LeciCream, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, or SoftGel 305.
• Thickeners: Thickeners are used to increase the viscosity or thickness of a specific phase (either oil or water) or the final product.
  • If you have a formula that is mainly oil and powder and you want to make the oil phase thicker or create an oil gel, you would use an oil thickener like Oil Thick Hard.
  • If you have a water phase and want to make it a gel or increase its viscosity, you would use a water-phase thickener like ThixoGel or CreamThick.
  • Some ingredients, like SoftGel 305, can act as both an emulsifier and a thickener.

If your formula primarily consists of oil and powder, but you intend to add a water phase to create a cream or lotion texture, an emulsifier is necessary to bind the oil and water together. If you are only working with oil and powder and want to create a thicker oil blend or paste, an oil thickener would be more appropriate.