Cosmetic Formulation, Ingredient Properties, and Skin Reactions
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I have several questions regarding cosmetic formulations and ingredients:
I am using a product containing Vitamin C E Ferulic. I experience a tingling/itching sensation when using it during the day, especially in hot, humid weather with sweat. However, I don't feel this sensation when using it at night. Why does this happen?
Is LipidSoft™ CC a silicone or an oil? Is it the same as Purcellin Oil?
Can sunscreen products containing chemical UV filters like Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene (such as SPF Protect Ultra™ II or SPF Protect Ultra™ III) be formulated to be oil-free?
How do anti-irritant ingredients work? When an active ingredient is known to cause irritation, how should I select an appropriate anti-irritant to pair with it?
Is it okay to use multiple anti-irritant ingredients in a single formulation?
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Answers to Your Formulation Questions
Here are the answers to your questions regarding cosmetic ingredients and formulations, building upon the information provided:
1. Vitamin C E Ferulic and Tingling Sensation
The tingling or itching sensation experienced when using Vitamin C E Ferulic, especially in hot and humid conditions with sweat, is a common reaction. As the staff mentioned, this is typically due to the acidic nature of Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid). Heat and sweat can affect the skin's pH and barrier function, making it more sensitive to acidic ingredients. This sensation is usually temporary and not a sign of an allergic reaction unless accompanied by persistent redness, burning, or swelling. The absence of this feeling at night, when it's cooler, supports this explanation.
2. LipidSoft™ CC and Purcellin Oil
LipidSoft™ CC is an ester, specifically Cetyl Ethylhexanoate. As the staff correctly stated, it is not a silicone and is considered oil-free. The description for LipidSoft™ CC confirms it has the same chemical structure as synthetic Purcellin Oil and is used in products like Bio-Oil. The difference between a synthetic ingredient like LipidSoft™ CC and its natural counterpart (if one existed with the exact same structure) lies in the source and manufacturing process, not in the chemical structure or functional properties in a formulation.
3. SPF Protect™ and Oil-Free Claim
The staff correctly stated that Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene are not oils. These are chemical UV filters. Therefore, a sunscreen product like SPF Protect Ultra™ II or SPF Protect Ultra™ III, which contains these types of chemical filters, can be formulated to be oil-free if the other components of the base formula are also oil-free. The term 'oil' in cosmetics typically refers to triglycerides and other similar lipids.
4. Anti-Irritant Properties and Selection
Anti-irritant ingredients work to counteract irritation regardless of whether it stems from environmental factors or specific ingredients in a product. As the staff noted, irritation is a general skin response. When an active ingredient is known to potentially cause irritation, selecting an appropriate anti-irritant involves:
- Understanding the active's mechanism: How does the active ingredient cause irritation (e.g., acidity, barrier disruption, activating inflammatory pathways)?
- Choosing complementary anti-irritants: Select ingredients that counteract that specific mechanism (e.g., buffers for acidity, barrier repair agents, anti-inflammatory compounds).
- Considering concentration and formulation: The levels of both the active and the anti-irritant, as well as the overall formula base, influence the outcome.
- Testing: Patch testing the final formulation is crucial to confirm compatibility and minimize irritation.
5. Using Multiple Anti-Irritants
Using multiple anti-irritant ingredients with different mechanisms of action is generally beneficial, as the staff pointed out. Different anti-irritants can work synergistically to provide broader and more effective relief from irritation by targeting various pathways involved in the inflammatory response. There are typically no negative effects from combining different anti-irritants, provided they are compatible within the formulation and used at suitable concentrations.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
LipidSoft™ CC (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
SPF Protect Ultra™ II