Cosmetic Formulation Review: Essence Viscosity and Cream Stability/Primer Function

Subject: Review of Cosmetic Formulations

Thank you for submitting your cosmetic formulations for review. Here are the answers to your questions:

Formula 1: Pitera ESSENCE plus Beta-Glucan

• Question: Is 0.3% Xanthan Gum sufficient to provide enough viscosity for Beta-Glucan to disperse?
• Answer: At 0.3%, Xanthan Gum provides a moderate level of viscosity suitable for light gels or thickened serums. While 3% Beta-Glucan itself will contribute significantly to the final viscosity once hydrated, 0.3% Xanthan Gum should provide enough initial body to help suspend and facilitate the dispersion of Beta-Glucan powder (if used in powder form) during mixing. The final texture and dispersion quality will also depend on the specific grade of Beta-Glucan and the mixing method used.

Formula 2: 60s Vanishing Cream

• Question 1: Given the oil phase and the amount of cream maker, will the formula separate over time?

• Answer: This formula is an oil-in-water emulsion. With an oil phase of approximately 11% and 1.5% Satin Cream Maker, the emulsifier ratio is around 1:7. While Satin Cream Maker is a capable emulsifier, this ratio is on the lower side for ensuring long-term stability, especially in a cold process formulation that may contain ingredients (like fermentation products or peptides) that could potentially introduce electrolytes or other components that might destabilize the emulsion over time. There is a potential for separation, and stability might be improved by slightly increasing the emulsifier concentration or ensuring thorough mixing.

• Question 2: Is it necessary to add a charge neutralizing agent to the water phase?

• Answer: Based on the ingredients listed, a charge neutralizing agent (like NaOH or TEA) is generally not necessary for this formulation. Charge neutralizers are typically used to activate certain anionic thickeners (like Carbomers) or adjust the pH for specific ingredients. Satin Cream Maker is likely a non-ionic or amphoteric emulsifier and does not require neutralization for its function. The necessity of a neutralizer would only arise if there were specific compatibility issues between charged ingredients, which is difficult to assess without detailed information on each raw material. Generally, the use of a charge neutralizer is not a mandatory step in this formula.

• Question 3: Can the formula help with makeup longevity?

• Answer: Yes, this formula contains several ingredients that can help improve makeup longevity and function as a primer. Polymethylsilsesquioxane and Nylon-12 are powders that help absorb oil, provide a smooth, soft-focus finish, and improve makeup adhesion. Lift-Now™ (Pullulan) is a film-former that can create a tightening effect and help makeup adhere better to the skin. The combination of these ingredients with the moisturizing components creates a good base for makeup application, potentially improving its wear time and appearance.

We hope this information is helpful for your cosmetic making!