Cosmetic Pigment Usage Restrictions and Natural Color Solubility

Asked by: som_nsp On: August 15, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Why are organic pigments like `D&C Red No.34 Ca Lake` restricted from use around the eyes (e.g., in eyeshadow)? Also, can natural pigments like those from purple sweet potato or gardenia, which are said to dissolve in oil, be used in lipstick formulations?

Answer

Cosmetic Pigment Usage Restrictions

Regarding your questions about cosmetic pigments:

  • Organic Pigments (e.g., D&C Red No. 34 Ca Lake): The restriction on using certain organic pigments like D&C Red No. 34 Ca Lake around the eyes (such as in eyeshadow) is based on safety regulations set by authorities like the FDA. These regulations are determined through safety testing for each specific colorant, which dictates where and at what concentration they can be safely used. D&C Red No. 34 Ca Lake is typically approved for use on nails, face, and lips, but not the eye area.

  • Inorganic Pigments (e.g., Iron Oxides Red): Unlike some organic pigments, inorganic pigments such as Iron Oxides Red are generally permitted for use in the eye area, including eyeshadow formulations, according to cosmetic regulations. They are widely used in various makeup products.

  • Natural Pigments (e.g., Purple Sweet Potato, Gardenia): Natural pigments derived from sources like purple sweet potato or gardenia can generally be used in cosmetic products, including eyeshadow, provided they meet purity and safety standards.

  • Solubility of Natural Pigments for Lipstick: Natural pigments such as those from purple sweet potato or gardenia are typically water-soluble, not oil-soluble. This means they cannot be dissolved directly into oil bases commonly used in lipsticks. However, they can be incorporated into lip formulations that contain a water phase. If you are making a lip product that includes water, you can use these water-soluble natural pigments. For formulas like lip balms that are primarily oil-based but where you want to incorporate a water-soluble ingredient, a product like Water Balm can help emulsify the water phase into the oil phase.