Cream becomes liquid and causes pilling when layered with oil

Hello,

The team sincerely apologizes for the error in reading the details and causing the delayed and off-topic responses. The team will try to be more careful.

Regarding the issues you reported, there are two main points: the first cream formula becoming liquid and pilling occurring when applying the second formula on top.

Issue 1: First cream formula became liquid

You mixed Yeast Radiance™ (1199), Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid (945), Sym-White™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) (898), and Willow Bark Extract (1117) into 175g of base cream and noticed the cream became more liquid, especially after adding Willow Bark Extract (1117).

• Cause: Adding liquid active ingredients or certain electrolyte-containing ingredients to a ready-made base cream can affect the structure of the cream, causing it to thin. Willow Bark Extract (1117) is a water-soluble extract with a pH that might affect the stability of the emulsion in the base cream.
• Effect on Efficacy: As the team previously informed, the thinning of the cream does not mean the ingredients have lost quality or that the efficacy is reduced. The active ingredients should still function normally.
• Fixing Consistency: Shaking alone might help the liquid ingredients mix to some extent, but it cannot restore the lost viscosity of the cream. If you want the cream to be thicker and easier to use, you need to add a thickener or a cream maker and mix or blend it in thoroughly so the thickener can disperse and rebuild the structure. Using a small blender (like a milk frother) will help the thickener incorporate better than mixing by hand.
• Recommendation: The team still recommends adding a thickener like Satin Cream Maker (247) at 1-2% or a Gel Maker like AnyGel (1282) or Pro Polymer (234) to the thinned formula and using a small blender to mix for about 15-30 minutes until the consistency returns to a suitable thickness. Mixing by hand might take a very long time and may not incorporate as well as blending.

Issue 2: Pilling when applying the second formula on top

You applied the first cream formula (which is liquid) and let it dry completely, then applied the second formula (Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) (499) 10% + Squalane (Olive) (128) 90%) on top, and pilling occurred.

• Possible Causes: Pilling when layering skincare products can be due to several factors:
  • Incompatibility of Textures: Even if the first formula isn't separated, the liquid texture might form a thin, uneven film on the skin. When an oil-based product like the second formula is applied on top, rubbing or spreading can cause this film to peel off as pilling.
  • Amount Used: Using too much product in each layer can prevent it from fully absorbing into the skin, leaving residue on the surface that can pill.
  • Certain Ingredients: Some ingredients in the first formula (even in liquid form) might have film-forming properties. When layered with another product of a different texture, they might clump and peel off.
• Fixing Pilling:
  • Fix the Consistency of the First Formula: Making the first formula a suitable thickness and well-mixed (as recommended in point 1) might help reduce pilling issues, as a stable and better-absorbing texture is less likely to leave a film that causes pilling.
  • Adjust Application Method: Try using a smaller amount of each product and gently patting instead of rubbing or spreading vigorously.
  • Allow Sufficient Drying Time: Although you mentioned waiting a long time, ensure each layer is fully absorbed into the skin before applying the next one.
  • Order of Application: Generally, lighter textures (like water-based serums) should be applied before heavier textures (like creams or oils). Applying an oil formula over a cream that might contain film-forming ingredients can increase the chance of pilling.

Summary of Recommendations:

1. Fix the First Formula: It is recommended to add a thickener or cream maker like Satin Cream Maker (247), AnyGel (1282), or Pro Polymer (234) to the thinned first formula and use a small blender to mix until the consistency is restored. Shaking alone is likely not sufficient.
2. Test Layering Again: After fixing the consistency of the first formula, try applying both formulas again, starting with the first formula followed by the second (Perfect-C™ + Squalane). Observe if the pilling issue is resolved.
3. Adjust Application: If pilling still occurs, try using less of each product and applying with gentle patting motions.

We hope these recommendations help resolve the issues you are experiencing. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.