Cream Formula for Acne, Marks, Melasma, and Freckles

You have a good base formula targeting acne, marks, melasma, and freckles, suitable for oily and normal skin. The staff correctly identified that the original formula using Light Cream Maker was incompatible with Azelaic Acid due to its electrolyte nature. The revised formula using Satin Cream Maker and Pro Polymer is a suitable alternative for mixability.

Suitability of the Revised Formula

The revised formula contains several effective ingredients for your goals:

• Azelaic Acid: Helps treat acne, reduce redness, and fade hyperpigmentation like acne marks and melasma.
• Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): Beneficial for oily skin by helping regulate oil, reduces inflammation, improves skin barrier, and helps fade marks.
• Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM): Provides anti-inflammatory benefits for acne.
• Rice Vitamin (Inositol): Can assist with oil balance.
• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): Soothes skin and aids in healing, beneficial for acne recovery and marks.

To enhance the formula's effectiveness for specific concerns, as suggested by the staff:

• For clogged pores, consider adding Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Powder, Timed-Release).
• For melasma, Tranexamic Acid is a highly effective ingredient to include.

Achieving a Fast-Absorbing, Non-Sticky Texture

To make the cream feel lighter and less sticky, especially for oily skin, follow the staff's recommendations:

1. Reduce the concentration of Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) from 3% to 1-1.5%.
2. Add a light emollient like Trisiloxane (5-10%) or Dimethicone 1Secs (5-10%). These can improve spreadability and reduce tackiness.

Ingredients for Acne Scars

To help improve the appearance of acne scars, which involve skin texture changes, consider adding ingredients that promote skin regeneration and collagen production. Some effective options include:

• Peptides: Such as Copper Peptide, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 (Pep-Coll), or Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR). These can stimulate collagen synthesis and repair.
• Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): Known for promoting cell growth and tissue repair.
• Collagen: Ingredients like HRC-4000™ (Human Type III Recombinant Collagen) can help replenish skin structure.
• Salmon DNA (PDRN): Supports tissue repair and regeneration.

You would typically add these ingredients during the water phase or cool-down phase, depending on their solubility and heat sensitivity. Refer to the specific product's instructions for usage percentage and addition phase.

Mixing Steps for the Revised Formula

Based on the staff's guidance, here are the mixing steps for the revised formula using Satin Cream Maker and Pro Polymer:

1. Combine Azelaic Acid, Safe-B3, Methylsulfonylmethane, Rice Vitamin, Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5), Phenoxyethanol SA, and the remaining Water together.
2. Mix until all ingredients are fully dissolved.
3. Add Satin Cream Maker and Pro Polymer to the mixture.
4. Use a blender (a hand blender or overhead stirrer is recommended) to mix thoroughly until the cream texture forms and the thickeners are completely dissolved. Manual stirring is not recommended due to the presence of electrolytes from Azelaic Acid, which makes thickening more challenging.

Remember to adjust the water percentage based on the total percentage of all active ingredients and thickeners used (they should sum up to 100%).