Cream Formula for Smooth, Clear Skin: Review and Compatibility Check

Asked by: thamon_an On: November 01, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding a cream formula for smooth, clear skin for normal skin (lacking nourishment), using the following ingredients:

  • Water
  • Repair Activator 10%
  • Ectoine 1.6%
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment 2%
  • Yeast Radiance™ 2%
  • Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract 2%
  • Coenzyme Q10 Extra 1%
  • Raspberry (Seed) Oil (Virgin) 10%
  • Plankton GP4G™ 1%
  • Phytosphingosine SA 0.2%
  • Satin Cream Maker™ 2%
  • Phospholipid 2%
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1%
  • Disodium EDTA 0.2%

Should any ingredients be added or removed? Are all the ingredients compatible with each other?

Answer

Formula Evaluation for Smooth and Clear Skin Cream

The provided formula contains several beneficial active ingredients aimed at improving skin texture, clarity, and overall health, including:

  • Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) for DNA repair and anti-aging.
  • Ectoine for cell protection and repair.
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment for brightening and antioxidant effects.
  • Yeast Radiance™ for skin radiance.
  • Coenzyme Q10 Extra for antioxidant and anti-aging benefits.
  • Raspberry (Seed) Oil (Virgin) for essential fatty acids and nourishment.
  • Plankton GP4G™ for stimulating skin cells and anti-aging.
  • Phytosphingosine SA for wrinkle reduction and pore size improvement.
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) and Disodium EDTA for preservation and stability.
  • Satin Cream Maker™ and Phospholipid as emulsifiers/texture enhancers.

Overall, the selection of active ingredients targets multiple skin concerns, which is good for addressing skin that lacks nourishment and aims for smoothness and clarity.

Ingredient Compatibility and Recommendations

Based on the properties of the ingredients, here are some points regarding compatibility and potential adjustments:

  • Phytosphingosine SA: This ingredient requires specific conditions for proper dissolution and effectiveness, namely the presence of Octyldodecanol (12-14% for 0.2% usage) and heating the oil phase to 80-90°C with blending. The current formula uses Satin Cream Maker™, which is a heat-free emulsifier, and does not list Octyldodecanol. This is the main compatibility issue. Phytosphingosine SA will likely not dissolve correctly in this system, significantly reducing its intended benefits for wrinkle and pore reduction. To effectively use Phytosphingosine SA, the formulation method and emulsifier would need to be changed to a hot process that includes Octyldodecanol. Alternatively, if a heat-free process is preferred, Phytosphingosine SA should be replaced with an ingredient compatible with cold processing that offers similar benefits.
  • Yeast Radiance™: The formula uses 2%, while the recommended usage rate for clear results after 28 days is 3%. While 2% may still provide some benefits, increasing it to 3% could enhance the brightening effect.
  • Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract and Phospholipid: The specific types of these ingredients are not detailed in the formula. To ensure optimal compatibility and efficacy, it's important to confirm their exact specifications and recommended usage guidelines. Assuming the Phospholipid is oil-dispersible, it should be incorporated into the oil phase.
  • Other Ingredients: Repair Activator, Ectoine, Lemon Peel Bioferment, Coenzyme Q10 Extra (assuming water-soluble type), Raspberry (Seed) Oil, Plankton GP4G™, Phenoxyethanol SA, and Disodium EDTA appear compatible with a water-based system and the Satin Cream Maker™ emulsifier, provided the mixing instructions and temperature limits for each are followed (e.g., adding heat-sensitive ingredients in the final cooling phase below 40°C). The pH of the final formula should also be within the effective range for Phenoxyethanol SA (2.0-6.0).

In summary, the formula has a good selection of active ingredients, but the inclusion of Phytosphingosine SA without the necessary solvent and mixing method poses a significant compatibility challenge that needs to be addressed to achieve the desired results. Adjusting the formulation process or replacing Phytosphingosine SA would be necessary.