Cream Formulation Analysis: Suitability, Texture, Sun Protection, and Ingredient Levels

ถามโดย: witch-mike เมื่อ: October 20, 2013 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have the following cream formula:

    1. Vitamin B3: 2%
    1. Alpha Arbutin: 1%
    1. Matrixyl 3000: 1.5%
    1. Laureth-23: 4%
    1. Oil-free Titanium Dioxide: 15%
    1. Oil-free Zinc Oxide: 15%
    1. Glucosamine (N-acetyl D): 3%
    1. Propylene Glycol: 10%
    1. Shea Butter Ultra Soft: 10%
    1. Coconut Oil: 5%

I adjust the pH using Citric Acid.

My questions are:

  1. Can this formula be used on the face or body?
  2. I want the texture to be white, smooth, fast-absorbing, and non-sticky. Will this formula achieve that?
  3. The formula includes 15% Titanium Dioxide and 15% Zinc Oxide for sun protection. Is this concentration too high or too low for slight sun protection?
  4. Do famous brands typically use such high concentrations of ingredients?

คำตอบ

Analysis of Your Cream Formula

Let's break down your cream formula and address your questions regarding its suitability for face/body, texture, sun protection, and comparison to commercial brands.

Suitability for Face or Body

Your formula contains several ingredients commonly used in both facial and body skincare:

  • Active Ingredients: Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Alpha Arbutin, Matrixyl 3000, and N-acetyl Glucosamine are beneficial for skin concerns like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and overall skin health, making them suitable for targeted treatment on the face or body.
  • Moisturizers/Emollients: Shea Butter and Coconut Oil are excellent for moisturizing and nourishing the skin. They are suitable for both face and body, but the high combined concentration (25%) might feel quite rich or potentially heavy, especially on the face, depending on your skin type (e.g., oily or acne-prone skin might find it too heavy).
  • Other Ingredients: Propylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Titanium Dioxide, and Zinc Oxide are standard cosmetic ingredients found in various skincare products for both face and body.

Overall, the formula can be used on both face and body. However, the richness from the Shea Butter and Coconut Oil, combined with the mineral sunscreens, might make it feel more suitable as a body cream or a rich facial cream for dry skin types.

Texture (White, Smooth, Fast-absorbing, Non-sticky)

  • White: The inclusion of 15% Titanium Dioxide and 15% Zinc Oxide will definitely result in a white cream. These are white mineral powders, and at a combined 30% concentration, they will provide significant opacity and likely leave a noticeable white cast on the skin, depending on the specific type and particle size used.
  • Smooth, Fast-absorbing, Non-sticky: Achieving a fast-absorbing and non-sticky texture with 25% oils/butters (Shea Butter, Coconut Oil) and 30% mineral filters can be challenging. Laureth-23 is an emulsifier that helps bind the oil and water phases. Propylene Glycol contributes to a smoother feel. However, the high oil and mineral content can make the cream feel heavier, potentially slower to absorb, and might leave a slightly tactile feel on the skin compared to lighter formulations. Using modern, surface-treated, or dispersed forms of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide (like transparent nano-dispersions) can help improve the texture and reduce the white cast and heavy feel.

Sun Protection (15% Titanium Dioxide, 15% Zinc Oxide)

A combined concentration of 30% mineral filters (Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) is a high level and should provide good broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. This concentration is likely sufficient for moderate to high SPF, depending on the specific grades of filters used and the final formulation's dispersion quality. 15% of each is a substantial amount for sun protection.

Ingredient Concentrations in Famous Brands

Famous cosmetic brands use a wide range of ingredient concentrations depending on the product's purpose and target audience.

  • Active Ingredients: Concentrations of active ingredients like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) at 2%, Alpha Arbutin at 1%, and N-acetyl Glucosamine at 3% are within the typical effective ranges found in many reputable skincare products. Matrixyl 3000 is often used at 3-5% for optimal anti-aging effects, so your 1.5% is a bit lower than the recommended range for this specific peptide blend.
  • Mineral Sunscreens: Sunscreens from major brands use varying concentrations of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide to achieve specific SPF and PPD ratings. Total concentrations for effective protection often range from 15% to 25%, though higher concentrations are used for very high SPF products. Your 30% total is on the higher side, which indicates a focus on strong protection, but as mentioned, this can impact the texture and appearance.
  • Emollients: The percentage of oils and butters like Shea Butter and Coconut Oil varies greatly. Rich creams or body butters might contain high percentages (like your 25% combined), while lighter facial lotions or serums would use much lower amounts or lighter emollients.

In summary, while some active ingredient concentrations in your formula are comparable to those in commercial products, the high combined level of oils/butters and mineral sunscreens is significant and would likely result in a rich, white cream with substantial sun protection, which might differ in texture from lighter, fast-absorbing lotions or serums from major brands that might use lower emollient levels or different UV filters (chemical or a blend).

Adjusting the pH with Citric Acid is a standard and necessary step in cosmetic formulation to ensure stability and skin compatibility.

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Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
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GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
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Propylene Glycol (USP)
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Laureth-23
Laureth-23
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Fractionated Coconut Oil
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Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
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Alpha Arbutin (China, Powder, Enzymatic Synthesis)
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Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland)
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Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form)
Alpha Arbutin (China, Crystal Form)
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Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion)
Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm, Water-Dispersion)
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Citric Acid (Anhydrous, Natural)
Citric Acid (Anhydrous, Natural)
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Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base)
Zinc Oxide 40nm Dispersion (Water Base)
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Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity)
Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity)
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