Cream Formulation Feedback for Light Texture

Asked by: thundornmonalaves On: October 19, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like advice. I want a cream with a light texture. Can the following formula be mixed, or should I adjust or add anything?

Here is the proposed formula:

  1. Safflower Seed Oil (High Oleic, Refined) 1%
  2. Satin Cream Maker™ 1.5%
  3. Bakuchiol (Natural Retinol) 1%
  4. Silybum Marianum Extract (Milk Thistle, Silymarin) 0.5%
  5. Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation) 0.5%
  6. Hydrolyzed Silk Protein (Sericin, Powder) 0.5%
  7. Natamycin (From Bacteria Fermentation) 0.4%
  8. Pure-Baicalin™ (Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract) 0.25%
  9. Disodium EDTA 0.2%
  10. Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.1%
  11. Nisin (Natural Anti-bacteria Peptide, 900IU/mg) 0.1%
  12. Purified Sterile Distilled Water 93.95%

Answer

Formulation Feedback

Based on the percentages you've provided, particularly the low oil phase (1% Safflower Seed Oil) and emulsifier (1.5% Satin Cream Maker™) combined with a very high water phase (93.95%), this formulation will likely result in a very light texture, more akin to a serum or a light lotion rather than a typical cream.

Here's a breakdown and some points to consider:

  • Texture: As mentioned, the low oil and emulsifier content relative to water will yield a very light product. If your goal is specifically a "cream" texture, even a light one, you might need to increase the oil phase and the emulsifier percentage accordingly (following the recommended usage rate for Satin Cream Maker™ based on the oil load). Typical light creams might have an oil phase of 5-15%.
  • Active Ingredients: The selection of active ingredients (Bakuchiol, Silybum Marianum Extract, Ectoine, Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Pure-Baicalin™, Hyaluronic Acid) is good and targets multiple skin concerns. The percentages used for the actives seem reasonable and are generally within typical recommended ranges based on product descriptions.
  • Bakuchiol Usage: You've included 1% Bakuchiol and 0.2% Disodium EDTA, which helps with Bakuchiol stability. The product description for Pure-Bakuchiol™ also strongly recommends using a penetration enhancer like Dimethyl isosorbide (2-3%) for optimal efficacy, which is not included in your current formula.
  • Emulsification: 1.5% Satin Cream Maker™ should be sufficient to emulsify 1% oil, but the resulting texture will be very light. The product description suggests 1-1.5% for viscosity and indicates it can handle up to 25% oil.
  • Preservation: You are using Natamycin and Nisin as natural preservatives. This combination covers both bacteria and fungi. However, the efficacy of natural preservatives can be highly dependent on the specific formulation, pH, and potential contaminants. It is strongly recommended to perform challenge testing on the final product to ensure adequate preservation against a broad spectrum of microorganisms throughout the product's shelf life. The Nisin description notes it works best in a pH range of 3-6.
  • Chelating Agent: Disodium EDTA at 0.2% is within the recommended range and is beneficial for formula stability, especially with ingredients sensitive to metal ions like Bakuchiol.
  • Water: Purified sterile distilled water is the appropriate base.

Conclusion

The formulation you proposed is technically mixable and contains a good blend of active ingredients at appropriate percentages. However, the texture will be very light (serum/light lotion) due to the low oil and emulsifier content. If this very light texture is what you desire, then the formulation is plausible, but stability and preservation efficacy must be thoroughly tested.

If you want a slightly more substantial "light cream" texture, you would need to increase the percentage of the oil phase (e.g., to 5-10%) and adjust the Satin Cream Maker™ percentage based on its recommended usage rate for the new oil percentage.

Regardless of the texture, stability testing (checking for separation, changes in viscosity, color, odor over time and under stress conditions like temperature variations) and preservation challenge testing are essential before using the product.