Cream Formulation for Brightening, Hydration, and Sun Protection

ถามโดย: sisaynoraseng เมื่อ: January 21, 2019 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to know the mixing instructions for a skin nourishing cream. The staff can add or remove some ingredients.

I want a cream that is easy to spread, lightweight, fast-absorbing, provides good and long-lasting hydration, is non-irritating, and focuses on skin brightening with sun protection.

My skin type is sun-damaged and dry, but not peeling, flaky, or cracked.

Here are the ingredients I plan to use:

  1. DI Water: Remaining percentage to reach 100%
  2. Safe-B3: 5%
  3. GlucoBright: 4%
  4. Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
  5. Active Resveratrol: 5%
  6. Satin Cream Maker: 1%
  7. Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5%
  8. Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor): 1%
  9. Perfume: Just Milk: 0.5%
  10. Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
  11. Fractionated Coconut Oil: What percentage should I use?
  12. Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: What percentage should I use?

Thank you.

คำตอบ

Subject: Proposed Cream Formulation and Mixing Instructions

Thank you for your inquiry! Based on your desired properties for a lightweight, fast-absorbing, moisturizing, brightening, and non-irritating cream with sun protection for your dry, sun-damaged skin, and the ingredients you provided, here is a proposed formulation and mixing guide.

We have calculated the percentages for Fractionated Coconut Oil and Zinc Oxide, and adjusted the DI Water percentage to complete the formulation to 100%.

Proposed Formulation:

  • DI Water: 64%
  • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 5% - Known for brightening, improving skin barrier, and reducing redness.
  • GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine): 4% - Works with Niacinamide for brightening and improving hydration.
  • Alpha Arbutin: 1.5% - A popular skin brightening agent that helps reduce dark spots.
  • Active Resveratrol: 5% - An antioxidant that can help protect the skin and has some brightening properties.
  • Satin Cream Maker: 1% - The emulsifier that helps create the cream texture.
  • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5% - Provides rich moisture and a smooth feel.
  • Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane: 1% - A silicone that provides a lightweight, silky feel and helps with spreadability.
  • Perfume: Just Milk: 0.5% - For fragrance.
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1% - A broad-spectrum preservative.
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 3% - A lightweight emollient that adds moisture without feeling heavy.
  • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 10% - A physical sunscreen agent providing broad-spectrum UV protection. Note: 10% Zinc Oxide provides some level of sun protection (typically SPF 10-15), suitable for daily incidental exposure. For prolonged or intense sun exposure, a higher percentage of Zinc Oxide (15-20%) or a dedicated high-SPF sunscreen is recommended. Higher percentages of Zinc Oxide may affect the cream's texture and feel.

Mixing Instructions:

This formulation involves heating and emulsifying. Please ensure you have appropriate equipment (like a scale for accurate measurement, heat-resistant beakers, and a homogenizer or stick blender).

  • Phase A (Water Phase):

    • DI Water: 64%
    • Safe-B3: 5%
    • GlucoBright: 4%
    • Alpha Arbutin: 1.5%
    • Active Resveratrol: 5%
      Combine ingredients in Phase A. Heat gently to 70-75°C and stir until all powders are dissolved.
  • Phase B (Oil Phase):

    • Satin Cream Maker: 1%
    • Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5%
    • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 3%
      Combine ingredients in Phase B. Heat gently to 70-75°C until Shea Butter is completely melted and ingredients are combined.
  • Phase C (Silicone/Zinc Oxide Phase):

    • Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane: 1%
    • Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse: 10%
      In a separate container, combine ingredients in Phase C. Mix thoroughly using a mortar and pestle or a small grinder if necessary to ensure the Zinc Oxide is fully dispersed and there are no clumps.
  • Phase D (Cool Down Phase):

    • Perfume: Just Milk: 0.5%
    • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

Steps:

  1. Heat Phase A and Phase B to 70-75°C.
  2. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while mixing continuously and vigorously with a homogenizer or stick blender. Maintain high shear mixing for 3-5 minutes to create a stable emulsion. Continue mixing gently while the emulsion cools.
  3. Once the emulsion has cooled to below 50°C, add the prepared Phase C dispersion. Mix thoroughly to ensure the Zinc Oxide is evenly incorporated throughout the cream.
  4. Continue cooling the mixture with gentle stirring. Once the temperature is below 40°C, add the ingredients from Phase D and mix until uniform.
  5. Check the pH of the final product and adjust if necessary (many skin actives work best in a slightly acidic range, e.g., pH 5.0-6.0).
  6. Package the cream in a suitable container.

Important Notes:

  • Always follow good manufacturing practices (GMP) and ensure all equipment and containers are clean and sanitized.
  • This is a suggested formulation. Small-scale testing is highly recommended to evaluate the texture, stability, and skin feel before making a larger batch.
  • The effectiveness of the sun protection depends on accurate measurement, proper dispersion of Zinc Oxide, and application amount.

We hope this helps you create a wonderful cream! Let us know if you have any further questions or would like to explore modifications.

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Active Resveratrol™
Active Resveratrol™
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Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
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Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
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GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
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Fractionated Coconut Oil
Fractionated Coconut Oil
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Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
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Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
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Satin Cream Maker™
Satin Cream Maker™
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Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
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Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
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Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
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