Cream Formulation for Heat-Sensitive White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™)
Question
I am trying to formulate a cream using White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™). I initially considered using Cetyl Alcohol with either Glyceryl Stearate SE or Polysorbate 20. However, I was informed that this approach is not feasible. Could you please explain why these methods are unsuitable for formulating with White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) and suggest alternative formulation methods (e.g., cream, gel, serum) that would be compatible with this heat-sensitive enzyme, along with the recommended pH range for optimal effectiveness?
Answer
Cream Formulation for White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™)
You are correct that the proposed methods using Cetyl Alcohol with either Glyceryl Stearate SE or Polysorbate 20 are not suitable for formulating with White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™).
Why the Proposed Methods Don't Work
- Cetyl Alcohol + Glyceryl Stearate SE: Both Cetyl Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate SE require heating to melt and properly incorporate into a cream base. White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) is an enzyme that is highly sensitive to heat. High temperatures will cause the enzyme to degrade and lose its effectiveness against acne-causing bacteria.
- Cetyl Alcohol + Polysorbate 20: While Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic surfactant, Cetyl Alcohol still requires heat for melting and incorporation. Furthermore, White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) is cationic (positively charged). Using anionic or even some non-ionic emulsifiers like Polysorbate 20 can potentially cause incompatibility issues or reduce the enzyme's stability and effectiveness.
Recommended Methods for Formulation
To create a stable and effective formulation containing White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™), you should use methods that do not involve high heat and are compatible with cationic ingredients. Here are suitable alternatives:
- Gel Formulation: You can create a gel texture using a non-ionic thickener such as Hydroxyethyl Cellulose. This method typically involves hydrating the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose in water first (which may require some warming, but the enzyme is added after cooling) and then incorporating the White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) once the gel has cooled down to room temperature.
- Serum Formulation: A Silky Serum Base can be used to create a serum texture. These bases are generally formulated to be compatible with various active ingredients and may not require heat or incompatible emulsifiers.
- Cream Formulation (Heat-Free): To achieve a cream texture without using heat, you can utilize a heat-free Cream Maker. Suitable options include:
- Light Cream Maker™: An oil-in-water emulsifier and thickener that works without heat and can handle up to 20% oil.
- Satin Cream Maker™: Another heat-free emulsifier and thickener that works over a wide pH range and can handle up to 25% oil. It also helps absorb bubbles.
- Warp Cream Maker™: A water-in-oil emulsifier that creates a quick-absorbing cream with a smooth, dry feel. This is often used for makeup or sunscreen but can be adapted for other creams where this texture is desired.
When using any of these recommended bases or thickeners, always add the White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) to the cooled down formula to preserve its enzymatic activity. Ensure the final pH of the formulation is in the range of 4-7, with 6.2 being optimal for the enzyme's effectiveness.
Related Products Mentioned
Light Cream Maker™
Cetyl Alcohol
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
Satin Cream Maker™
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™)
Silky Serum Base (Face/Eye)
Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (4500mPa.s)
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) (2800mPa.s)