Cream Formulation for Hyperpigmentation and Dry Skin
Question
I have developed a cream formulation to treat melasma, freckles, dark spots, dry skin, and wrinkles. Could you please review the formula below and provide feedback on its effectiveness, potential for irritation (especially for dry and sensitive skin), suggested adjustments to ingredient percentages, and confirm if the mixing procedure is correct?
Formula Ingredients:
- Azelaic Acid (10%)
- Vitamin B3 (5%)
- Soy Extract (5%)
- WhiteCumin™
- n-acetyl glucosamine (4%)
- Tranexamic Acid
- MSH White™
- Activated Resorcinol™
- Shea Butter
- Organic Virgin Coconut Oil
- Polyquaternium-51
(Mixing Procedure was also provided)
Answer
Regarding your formulation for melasma, freckles, dark spots, dry skin, and wrinkles:
1. Effectiveness and Ingredient Adjustment:
- Your formulation includes a comprehensive blend of active ingredients known for their effectiveness against hyperpigmentation, such as Azelaic Acid, Vitamin B3, Soy Extract, WhiteCumin™, n-acetyl glucosamine, Tranexamic Acid, MSH White™, and Activated Resorcinol™. This combination targets multiple pathways involved in melanin production.
- Ingredients like Shea Butter, Organic Virgin Coconut Oil, Polyquaternium-51, and n-acetyl glucosamine are beneficial for addressing dry skin concerns. Vitamin B3 also helps improve skin barrier function.
- While Vitamin B3 offers some anti-aging benefits, the primary strength of this formulation lies in addressing hyperpigmentation and dryness, rather than being a strong anti-wrinkle treatment.
- As noted by cosmeceutical7, using many active ingredients at high concentrations can potentially increase the risk of skin irritation, especially for dry and sensitive skin. To balance efficacy and minimize irritation, it is advisable to adjust the percentages of some ingredients as suggested:
- Vitamin B3: Reduce from 5% to 2-3%.
- Azelaic Acid: Reduce from 10% to 5-7%.
- n-acetyl glucosamine: Reduce from 4% to 2%.
- Soy Extract: Reduce from 5% to 2-3%.
- cosmeceutical7 also mentioned the availability of MSH White Absorb™, which is easier to incorporate into the oil phase. If you use this version, a concentration of 4-5% is suggested.
2. Mixing Procedure:
- The mixing procedure you outlined is generally correct, as confirmed by cosmeceutical7.
- Pay attention to the dissolution of MSH White™ as mentioned in the instructions, especially if using a different version like MSH White Absorb™ which can be added directly to the oil phase (Part B).
Overall, this is a potent formulation for hyperpigmentation and dryness. Adjusting the ingredient percentages as suggested can help optimize the balance between effectiveness and potential irritation. Always perform a patch test before applying the product to your entire face.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Shea Butter (Refined , Deodorised)
Light Cream Maker™
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Disodium EDTA
Lemon Peel Bioferment (Lemon Skin™)
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Trans-White™
Soy Extract (Isoflavones / Genistein)
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)