Cream Formulation for Mature Skin (Wrinkles & Lifting): Mixing and Effectiveness

Hello! This is a thoughtful formulation for your mother's dry skin with deep wrinkles. Let's break down the formula and address your questions based on the ingredients and the expert advice.

1. Suitability for Dry Skin and Deep Wrinkles:

Yes, this formula is generally suitable for dry skin with deep wrinkles. It contains several ingredients beneficial for these concerns:

• Moisturizing Ingredients: Panthenol, MOIST72, WaterLock, Grape Seed Oil, Rose Hip Oil, Shea Butter, and Coconut Oil provide hydration and emollience, which are crucial for dry skin and help plump up fine lines.
• Anti-Aging & Lifting Ingredients: DMAE, Lift-Now™, Pep-Coll, and Vitamin B3 target wrinkles, firmness, and overall skin appearance.

2. Mixing Procedure:

The proposed mixing procedure is mostly correct, but there's a common adjustment needed for where the emulsifier is added. Based on standard formulation practices and the expert advice:

• Step A: Mixing the water-soluble ingredients (1-9) together is correct. Regarding pH adjustment with Triethanolamine, the expert suggests it might not be necessary if the final pH is within the 4-6 range, as DMAE can lower the pH, and Triethanolamine can be a potential irritant for some. You can check the pH after mixing the final cream if you have a pH meter.
• Step B: Mixing the oil-soluble ingredients (10-13) and heating to melt Shea Butter is correct.
• Combining Phases: The emulsifier (Light Cream Maker, 14) should typically be added to the oil phase (B), not the water phase. Heat can help it dissolve/disperse better in the oil phase. Then, you gradually add the water phase (A) to the oil phase (B + emulsifier) while stirring continuously until the cream forms.
• Final Step: Add the preservative (Phenoxyethanol, 15) after the cream has formed and cooled down slightly.

So, the corrected combining steps would be:

1. Mix Light Cream Maker (14) into the oil phase (B). Heat gently if needed to ensure it's well dispersed.
2. Gradually add the water phase (A) to the oil phase (B + 14) while stirring until a cream forms.
3. Add the preservative (15) and mix well.

3. Adjustments to the Formula:

The expert advice provides excellent suggestions for initial adjustments, especially since this is a first attempt for your mother:

• DMAE (10%): The expert recommends starting with a lower concentration, perhaps 5%, because 10% can potentially cause skin irritation or feel sticky for some users. If 5% is well-tolerated and shows some effect, you can consider increasing it later if needed.
• Lift-Now™ (3%): This ingredient provides an immediate tightening effect, which some people find uncomfortable or feel like a film on the skin. The expert suggests starting with a lower percentage, like 1%, to see if the tightening sensation is acceptable. You can increase it if more lift is desired and the feel is still comfortable.
• Adding AHA: For mature skin, adding an AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) ingredient is recommended by the expert. AHA helps to gently exfoliate and promote skin cell turnover, which can improve skin texture, brightness, and the appearance of wrinkles over time. Start with a low concentration (e.g., 2-5%) of a gentle AHA like Lactic Acid or Glycolic Acid, keeping in mind that AHA can increase sun sensitivity, so sunscreen is essential.
• Other Ingredients: The expert considers the percentages of other ingredients acceptable for a starting point.

It's wise to start with lower concentrations of potentially irritating or feel-altering ingredients (like DMAE and Lift-Now™) and adjust based on your mother's skin response and preference.

4. Effectiveness for Wrinkles (Short and Long Term):

Yes, this formula has the potential to help with wrinkles in both the short and long term:

• Short Term: Lift-Now™ provides an immediate, temporary lifting and tightening effect, which can make wrinkles appear less prominent right after application. DMAE may also contribute to a feeling of firmness.
• Long Term: Ingredients like Pep-Coll stimulate collagen production, which is key to reducing the depth of wrinkles over time. Vitamin B3 improves skin elasticity and barrier function. The moisturizing oils and ingredients help maintain skin hydration and health, which supports long-term wrinkle reduction. Adding AHA would further enhance long-term results by promoting cell renewal.

Overall, this is a promising formula. Starting with the suggested adjustments for DMAE and Lift-Now™ and considering the addition of AHA seems like a good approach to tailor it specifically for your mother's skin and preferences.