Cream Formulation Advice for Melasma and Dry Skin

Thank you for your question and proposed formula. Based on your questions and the feedback from our staff, here is a revised approach and answers to your specific points:

Addressing Your Questions:

1. Melasma/Whitening Actives Concentration: Your list of actives is potent. The staff recommended using Activated Resorcinol™ (1%) and Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™) (5%), Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) (3-5%), and N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) (4%). If you use Activated Resorcinol™, you do not need Alpha Arbutin. The staff advised against using Azelaic Acid (LIQUID AZELAIC™) at 10% if your friend's skin is very dry, irritated, peeling, or cracking, as it is a peeling agent which can worsen these conditions.

2. Separating vs. Combining Formulas: It is possible to combine the anti-melasma/whitening ingredients with moisturizers in a single cream formula, as suggested by the staff's revised formula. Your original list of moisturizers was quite extensive, and some might be challenging to incorporate together.

3. Moisturizers for Very Dry Skin: The staff agreed that your initial list of moisturizers was too much. For very dry skin, they suggested focusing on Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ (5%) and MOIST72™ (2%). MOIST72™ was recommended as it is easier to blend compared to your original combination including Urea and PHA. They also suggested optionally adding WaterLock™ (1-2%) to help reduce transepidermal water loss. The staff asked if the skin is peeling, flaking, or cracking, as this is important context for selecting ingredients.

4. Light Cream Maker™ Percentage: The staff suggested that using 2-3% of Light Cream Maker™ might result in a cream that is too thick for a standard texture. They recommended using 1-1.5% for a normal cream consistency. If a heavier texture is desired, they suggested considering Rich Cream Maker or Luxury Cream Maker instead.

5. pH Adjustment: While not strictly necessary for all ingredients, adjusting the pH of the final cream is generally good practice to ensure the stability and efficacy of the active ingredients and the preservative system. Your original formula using Urea with Natural PHA would have specifically required careful pH adjustment (to around pH 4.5-5.5) using a pH meter. Although MOIST72™ was suggested as an easier alternative, checking and adjusting the final pH is still recommended.

6. Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) Percentage: The suggested range of 3-5% for Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) is appropriate and aligns with the staff's recommendation.

Staff's Suggested Revised Formula (Example):

Based on the staff's advice, here is a possible simplified formula for very dry skin targeting melasma and whitening:

• Activated Resorcinol™ (4-butyl Resorcinol): 1%
• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): 5%
• Vitamin B3, Niacinamide (Safe-B3™): 3-5%
• N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™): 4%
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™: 5%
• MOIST72™: 2%
• (Optional) WaterLock™: 1-2%
• LipidSoft™: 5%
• Light Cream Maker™: 1-1.5% (adjust for desired texture)
• (Preservative) Phenoxyethanol: 1% (or Mild Preserved™ (Ethylhexylglycerin) 1% if skin is sensitive)
• Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
• Water: Remaining percentage

Remember that successful formulation involves precise measurements, proper mixing procedures, and often stability and compatibility testing. Always follow the usage instructions for each raw material.