Cream Formulation Guideline (100g) for Oily Skin, Melasma, Freckles, Acne, and Dark Spots

Creating an exact, ready-to-use formula with precise percentages requires laboratory testing to achieve the desired texture and stability with specific ingredient grades. However, based on the ingredients you provided and your goals, here is a guideline for a 100g cream formulation aiming for a light texture and targeting your skin concerns.

Key Ingredients and Their Roles

• Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Beneficial for reducing oiliness, minimizing pores, improving acne, reducing redness, and fading dark spots, melasma, and freckles. It also strengthens the skin barrier. Typical usage rate is 1-10%, with 5% often recommended for visible results. Safe-B3™ can be used up to 10%.
• Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free): Helps tighten pores and reduce oiliness. Typical usage in a cream might be 5-20%.
• Alpha Arbutin: A skin brightening agent that helps fade dark spots, melasma, and freckles. Recommended usage rate for efficacy is 0.2-2%, with 2% being common. It requires a pH between 3.5-6.5 for stability.
• Light Cream Maker™: An emulsifier and thickener for creating a light, smooth, non-greasy cream texture without high heat. Usage rate is typically 0.5-3%, with 1-1.5% recommended for a light cream.
• Isohexadecane or Isododecane: Lightweight emollients for a smooth, non-greasy feel and spreadability. Usage rate is typically 1-25%.
• Steareth-2: An emulsifier. Typical usage rate is 1-10%.
• Stearic Acid: A fatty acid acting as a thickener and emollient. Usage rate is typically 1-20%.
• Cetearyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol functioning as a thickener and emollient. Usage rate is typically 1-20%.
• Propylene Glycol: A humectant and solvent.
• Citrus aurantium dulcis oil: Optional fragrance.

• Preservative Blend: Essential for product safety and shelf life.

• (Note: Ascorbic Acid from your original list is likely ineffective in this formula type. Anax ginseng root extract is not available.)*

Sample 100g Cream Formulation (Starting Point)

This is a possible starting point. Adjustments will likely be needed.

• Water Phase:

  • Aqua: q.s. to 100g (~53g)
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5g
  • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free): 15g
  • Propylene Glycol: 3g

• Oil Phase:

  • Isohexadecane or Isododecane: 8g
  • Steareth-2: 3g
  • Stearic Acid: 3g
  • Cetearyl Alcohol: 3g
  • Light Cream Maker™: 1.5g
  • Citrus aurantium dulcis oil (Optional): 0.5g

• Cool Down Phase (Add below 40°C):

  • Alpha Arbutin: 2g
  • Preservative Blend: 0.5g

• (Ensure total weight is 100g by adjusting Aqua)*

General Mixing Instructions

1. Combine Water Phase ingredients (Aqua, Niacinamide, Witch Hazel, Propylene Glycol). Stir.
2. Combine Oil Phase ingredients (Isohexadecane/Isododecane, Steareth-2, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Light Cream Maker™, Citrus oil). Heat to ~70°C to melt solids. Stir.
3. Slowly add Water Phase to Oil Phase while stirring/homogenizing until emulsified and cooling.
4. Cool below 40°C.
5. Add Alpha Arbutin (dissolved), Preservative Blend. Stir until uniform.
6. Check and adjust pH to 3.5-6.5.

Adjust percentages of thickeners/emollients (Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Steareth-2, Light Cream Maker™, Isohexadecane/Isododecane) to achieve your desired texture. Use Niacinamide (5%+) and Alpha Arbutin (2%) at effective rates for skin benefits.

Always test small batches and adjust as needed.