Cream Formulation Issue: Cream Turning Liquid After Adding Water Phase

Question

I am formulating a skin cream intended to coat the skin for a whitening effect. The formula is as follows:

Titanium 2%
Grape Seed Oil 10%
Cyclomethicone 5%
Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable) 4%
Butter Cream Maker™ 2%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
Glycerin 5%
Water 70%

The mixing procedure I followed is:

Mix ingredients 7 and 8 separately.
Mix ingredients 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 together, using heat (70°C) until the texture is smooth and homogeneous. Remove from heat.
Add the water phase (ingredients 7, 8) into the oil phase (ingredients 1, 2, 3, 4, 5).
Divide the water phase into 3 portions.

I added the first portion of the water phase into the cream base and stirred until combined, resulting in a nice, thick cream texture. After adding the second portion, the cream became slightly less viscous but still maintained a cream consistency. However, when I added the third portion, the cream turned completely liquid, like water, and no amount of stirring could bring back the cream texture.

How can I fix this? I want a thick, butter-like cream texture. What ingredients should I increase or decrease?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Your cream formulation turning liquid after adding the final portion of water suggests that the emulsion system wasn't stable enough to incorporate the full water phase. This can happen due to several reasons, including:

Insufficient Emulsifier: While 2% Butter Cream Maker™ is within the recommended range, it might be on the lower side for the total oil/fatty phase percentage (around 23% including oils, Cetyl Alcohol, Titanium, and the emulsifier itself).
Insufficient Thickener/Stabilizer: Cetyl Alcohol at 4% helps, but it might not be enough to provide the desired thick, butter-like consistency and stabilize the emulsion against the full water load.
Temperature Difference: Adding the water phase (even in portions) when it's significantly cooler than the oil phase (heated to 70°C) can shock the emulsion and cause it to break. Both phases should ideally be at a similar temperature (around 70-75°C) when combined.
Mixing During Cooling: Proper mixing is crucial as the emulsion cools down to room temperature. The viscosity builds during this cooling phase. If mixing stops too early or isn't consistent, the emulsion might not form correctly.

To achieve a thicker, butter-like texture and a stable emulsion, you can try the following adjustments:

Increase Butter Cream Maker™: Try increasing the percentage to 3% or even 4%. This will provide more emulsifying power to handle the water phase.
Increase Cetyl Alcohol: Increase Cetyl Alcohol to 5% or 6%. This will act as a stronger co-emulsifier and thickener, helping to build viscosity and stabilize the emulsion.
Ensure Correct Temperatures: Heat both the oil phase (step 2) and the water phase (step 1) to the same temperature, around 70-75°C, before combining them.
Mix Properly During Cooling: After combining the hot phases and mixing well to form the initial emulsion, continue stirring (you can switch to slower stirring) while the cream cools down to room temperature. The cream will thicken as it cools.

You could try increasing just the Butter Cream Maker, or just the Cetyl Alcohol, or both slightly. For a butter-like texture, increasing both is often effective.