Cream Flaking and Pilling Issues

The problem of the cream drying and flaking on the skin, forming a thin film, is likely due to the film-forming nature of AnyGel (Dehydroxanthan Gum). AnyGel creates a gel structure that, when it dries on the skin, can form a film. If this film lacks sufficient moisture and flexibility, it can become brittle and crack or flake off, similar to how a dried gel might behave.

Your initial observation that the AnyGel gel base was not smooth and had a flaky texture before adding other ingredients also points to a potential issue with fully hydrating and dispersing the AnyGel powder. While heating the water helped, ensuring a completely smooth and lump-free gel base through proper mixing or blending is crucial for a uniform film on the skin.

When you added humectants like 1,3-Propanediol, MOIST24, and Double Hyaluron Liquid, you observed a reduction in the drying and flaking. This is because humectants attract and hold water, which helps keep the film formed by AnyGel hydrated and more flexible, preventing it from drying out and flaking.

However, adding these humectants introduced a new problem: pilling (forming "ขี้ไคล" or residue) when the skin is rubbed after application. Pilling often occurs when multiple film-forming ingredients or polymers are present in a formula and are not fully compatible, or when the total concentration of these ingredients is too high. When rubbed, these ingredients can roll up on the skin's surface. Both AnyGel and Hyaluronic Acid (in Double Hyaluron Liquid) are film-forming polymers, and combining them, especially with other ingredients, can increase the likelihood of pilling. MOIST24, while a good humectant, might also contribute to this issue depending on the overall formulation balance.

How to Address the Problem

To prevent both flaking and pilling, you need to balance the film-forming properties of AnyGel with sufficient hydration and emollients, while ensuring compatibility to avoid pilling.

1. Ensure Proper AnyGel Hydration: Make sure the AnyGel powder is fully hydrated and dispersed into a smooth, lump-free gel before combining it with other phases. The suggestion to use warm water and blending is a good approach for this. An uneven gel base can lead to an uneven film that is more prone to flaking.
2. Optimize AnyGel Concentration: While AnyGel is needed for thickening, using the minimum effective concentration might help reduce the tendency to form a prominent, potentially brittle film.
3. Adjust Humectant and Emollient Balance:
   • You need humectants to keep the AnyGel film hydrated and flexible. 1,3-Propanediol showed some promise in reducing flaking. You could try optimizing its concentration or combining it with other humectants.
   • Consider using a blend of humectants and emollients. Emollients (like the Passion Fruit Oil and Argan Oil in your formula) provide a smooth feel and can help plasticize the film, making it less prone to cracking. Ensure your oil phase is well emulsified with the water phase using Polysorbate 20.
   • If MOIST24 and Double Hyaluron Liquid cause pilling in this specific formula, you might need to try different types of humectants or adjust their concentrations significantly. Sometimes, using lower molecular weight humectants or specific non-pilling grades of ingredients can help.
4. Consider Alternative Thickeners/Emulsifiers: You mentioned trying Light Cream Maker, which resulted in a more oily feel but still some dryness. Light Cream Maker is an emulsifier and thickener that can also cause flaking if not properly mixed. Pro Polymer was mentioned as a comparison, which is another gel maker with different properties. If AnyGel continues to be problematic in combination with your desired moisturizers, exploring other gelling agents or emulsifier systems might be necessary.

In summary, the flaking is likely due to the AnyGel film drying out, and the pilling is a compatibility issue arising when combining film-forming AnyGel with certain humectants. The key is to ensure proper formulation technique for AnyGel and find a balance of hydrating ingredients and emollients that are compatible and do not cause pilling, potentially by adjusting concentrations or trying alternative ingredients.