Cream Formulation Issues: Lack of Moisture and Thinning with Preservative
Question
I have formulated a cream with the following ingredients:
- Aloe Vera Extract 2%
- Cucumber Extract 3%
- Calendula Extract 3%
- German Chamomile Extract 1%
- Luxury Cream Maker 3%
- Nature Preserve 1%
- Water 87%
I have a few questions:
- After applying the cream for a while, my skin doesn't feel moisturized. What ingredients should I add, or which cream maker should I use?
- When adding the preservative (
Nature Preserve) in the final step, the cream texture becomes much thinner compared to before adding the preservative. How can I fix this?
Answer
Formulation Advice
Based on your formulation and the issues you are experiencing, here is some advice:
Lack of Moisturizing Feel
The current formulation contains several beneficial extracts like Aloe Vera Extract, Cucumber Extract, Calendula Extract, and German Chamomile Extract, which provide soothing and some hydrating properties. However, it lacks ingredients that create a more lasting moisturizing barrier on the skin.
To improve the moisturizing feel and prevent the skin from feeling dry after application, consider adding emollients and humectants:
- Emollients: Adding a light oil like Fractionated Coconut Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) at a percentage of 3-5% can significantly improve the skin feel, making it softer and smoother without feeling greasy. It helps reduce water loss from the skin.
- Humectants: Incorporating Hyaluronic Acid can boost hydration. Using a combination of molecular weights, such as Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) for surface hydration and Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons) for deeper penetration, can provide multi-level moisture. You could add 0.1-0.3% of each type.
- Oil-Free Moisturizer: If you prefer an oil-free option, Glass Moist is a thick cream gel that can be dispersed in your formula to enhance moisturization and give a "glass skin" effect.
Thinning with Preservative
The thinning of your cream after adding Nature Preserve is likely due to the preservative containing electrolytes (Sodium Benzoate). Luxury Cream Maker, while generally robust, can be affected by electrolytes, leading to a decrease in viscosity.
Here are a few ways to address this:
- Increase Luxury Cream Maker: You could try slightly increasing the percentage of Luxury Cream Maker in your formula (e.g., from 3% to 3.5% or 4%) to compensate for the thinning effect.
- Alternative Cream Maker: Consider using a different cream maker that might be less sensitive to electrolytes or provides a different texture. Soft Cream Maker creates a soft, shiny cream and requires heat, thickening over 48 hours. Moist Cream Maker is designed for heavier creams and is also compatible with electrolytes, but may benefit from an additional thickener like Xanthan Gum in electrolyte-rich formulas. Velvet Cream Maker provides a matte, non-greasy feel.
- Adjust Preservative Addition: Ensure the cream has fully formed its structure before adding the preservative. Add the preservative slowly while stirring gently.
Experimentation may be needed to find the right balance and achieve your desired texture and moisturizing feel.
Related Products Mentioned
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Cucumber Extract (France)
Luxury Cream Maker™
Soft Cream Maker™