Cream Formulation Issues: Liquidity, Colored Clumps, and Pilling

Asked by: so_ega_lv On: June 04, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to make a cream formulation with the following ingredients:

  • Water phase + Extracts (Group A):
    • Allantoin 0.35%
    • Propylene Glycol 5%
    • Collagen 0.4%
    • Arbutin 2%
    • Vitamin C 1%
    • Vitamin B3 2%
    • Honey Extract 1%
    • Tomato Extract 1%
    • Licorice Extract 1%
  • Rich cream 3% (Ingredient 11)
  • Silicone phase + Color (Group B+C):
    • Titanium Nano 2%
    • Silicone Gel 10%
    • Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™ 0.2%

My mixing procedure was to combine Group A with Ingredient 11 first, and then mix this with Group B+C later.

The resulting cream is liquidy, has colored clumps, and pills when applied to the skin.

What could be the reason for these problems?

Answer

Hello,

I understand the problem you encountered with your cream formulation. The resulting cream is liquidy, has colored clumps, and pills when applied.

Based on the information you provided and the response from the MySkinRecipes staff, here's a summary:

  1. Ingredients: You used several ingredients, some of which were not purchased from MySkinRecipes (items 2-10).
  2. Staff Response: The staff confirmed that ingredients 12 (Titanium Nano), 13 (Silicone Gel), and 14 (Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix™), which are sold by MySkinRecipes, are compatible with each other. They also stated they cannot provide advice for other ingredients not sold by them, as properties can vary by manufacturer.
  3. Mixing Steps: You separated ingredients into groups (A is the water phase + extracts, B+C is the silicone phase + color) and mixed them later. You also added ingredient 11 (rich cream 3%) to the water phase first.

Cause of the Problem:

The main reason the cream is liquidy, has colored clumps, and pills is due to Emulsification Failure.

  • Making a cream involves combining a Water Phase and an Oil/Silicone Phase, which normally do not mix, into a stable, uniform product. This requires an Emulsifier to help bind the phases together and correct mixing techniques (e.g., heating, appropriate stirring speed).
  • In your formula, you have a water phase (ingredients 1-10) and a silicone/color phase (ingredients 12-14). Ingredient 11 (rich cream 3%) might contain emulsifiers, but 3% might not be sufficient to create a stable emulsion for the total amount of water and silicone/oil phases in the formula. Also, adding it to the water phase first might not be the correct procedure for that specific cream base.
  • When the water and silicone/color phases cannot combine into a stable emulsion, they separate. This results in a liquid texture instead of the desired thick cream.
  • Colored clumps and pilling are symptoms of the unstable emulsion. The pigments (Titanium Nano and Iron Oxides), which are dispersed in the silicone/oil phase, separate and clump together when this phase breaks away from the water phase. When applied to the skin, the separated silicone/oil phase, which doesn't integrate well, can aggregate and peel off as clumps or pills.

Conclusion:

The problem is not that ingredients 12, 13, and 14 are incompatible with each other (as confirmed by the staff), but rather an issue with the overall emulsification system of the formula. It likely lacks sufficient emulsifier or uses an inappropriate mixing technique to combine the water and silicone/oil phases.

Since most ingredients (2-10) are not from MySkinRecipes and they cannot provide direct advice on those ingredients, I recommend you:

  1. Consult the supplier of ingredients 2-10 to inquire about their specific properties and recommendations for use in cosmetic formulations.
  2. Find a complete cream formulation guide that specifies the type and amount of emulsifier suitable for the quantities of water and oil/silicone phases, as well as clear mixing instructions, to achieve the desired thick and stable cream texture.

Tags

Clumping Cream Emulsification Phase Separation Pilling