Cream Formulation Issues with High Electrolytes and Mixing Procedure

Asked by: nuypr On: October 16, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a cream formulation using Light Cream Maker™ with the following ingredients:

  • Sodium PCA 5%
  • Sodium Lactate 3%
  • Rosehip oil
  • Shea Butter

My procedure was to combine all water-soluble ingredients, then combine the oil phase (Rosehip oil, Shea Butter) with Light Cream Maker™, and finally pour the entire water phase into the oil phase. The resulting cream turned into a liquid.

What caused the cream to become liquid, and how can I fix this liquid mixture? Also, can I mix this liquid mixture with another cream base?

Answer

The reason your cream turned into a liquid is due to two main factors:

  1. High Electrolyte Content: Your formula contains relatively high amounts of Sodium PCA (5%) and Sodium Lactate (3%), which are electrolytes. These substances can disrupt the stability of emulsions created with Light Cream Maker™, causing the cream to become thin or liquid. According to the information for Light Cream Maker™, it cannot be used in high electrolyte formulas, but it can tolerate electrolytes to some extent. If electrolytes are present, the amount of Light Cream Maker™ must be increased to compensate.
  2. Incorrect Mixing Procedure: Pouring the entire water phase into the oil phase all at once prevents the cream structure (emulsion) from forming properly. Although Light Cream Maker™ can be mixed in either the oil or water phase, when combining oil and water phases, gradually adding one phase to the other while continuously stirring helps create a more stable emulsion, especially when high levels of electrolytes are present.

Your procedure involved combining all water-soluble ingredients, then combining the oil phase (Rosehip oil, Shea Butter) with Light Cream Maker™, and finally pouring the entire water phase into the oil phase. This sequence and the rapid pouring method were incorrect.

How to fix the current liquid mixture:

Do not discard the liquid mixture. You can fix it by gradually adding more Light Cream Maker™ (approximately 2-3% more) to the liquid mixture while continuously stirring until the cream texture returns, as advised by the staff.

Mixing the liquid with another cream base:

Yes, you can mix your current liquid mixture with another cream base. Although this will alter the final concentration of all ingredients in the resulting cream compared to your original formula, it is a way to avoid wasting the materials. The resulting cream should still provide some moisturizing benefits.

Recommendations for making creams with high electrolytes in the future (using Light Cream Maker™):

According to the information for Light Cream Maker™, if your formula contains a large amount of electrolytes, you should use a special mixing method:

  1. Mix all other ingredients according to the usual steps until the cream texture has formed.
  2. Keep the electrolyte-containing ingredients (such as Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate) separate.
  3. ค่อยๆ เติมส่วนผสมอิเล็กโทรไลต์ลงในเนื้อครีมทีละน้อย พร้อมกับคนอย่างต่อเนื่อง
  4. If the cream becomes thinner, add a small amount of Light Cream Maker™ to increase the viscosity.
  5. Repeat the process of adding electrolytes and Light Cream Maker™ alternately until all electrolyte ingredients have been added and the cream still has the desired thickness.

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