Cream Formulation Mixing Steps for Moisturizing and Brightening

Question

I am trying to create a cream formulation with the following ingredients and percentages:
gamma Oryzanol (Rice Bran Extract) 0.5%
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) light grade 5%
Disodium EDTA 0.2%
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids 4%
Butylene Glycol 15%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Distilled Water remaining amount
Phospholipid 2%
Warp Cream Maker™ 7%
Phenylethyl Resorcinol 0.5%
ActiveProtec™ OX 0.6%

My mixing method is: Mix the oil phase first, then the water phase, then add the water phase to the oil phase, then add Phospholipid and Warp Cream Maker™, blend until homogeneous, then add Phenylethyl Resorcinol and ActiveProtec™ OX, blend until combined, and finally add Mild Preserved Eco and blend until combined.

Is this mixing procedure correct? I want a cream that helps with moisturizing and skin brightening.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Mixing steps and suitability for moisturizing and brightening

Regarding the mixing steps you provided for the cream formulation:

The ingredients you have selected are suitable for creating a cream that provides both moisturizing and skin brightening benefits.

Moisturizing: Mineral Oil, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, and Butylene Glycol help hydrate and soften the skin.
Skin Brightening: Oryzanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, and ActiveProtec™ OX contribute to a brighter and more even skin tone.

However, the mixing procedure described, specifically adding the emulsifiers (Phospholipid and Warp Cream Maker™) after combining the oil and water phases, is generally not the correct method for forming a stable water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion.

For a W/O emulsion using these types of emulsifiers, the typical procedure involves:

Prepare the Oil Phase: Combine and heat the oil-soluble ingredients (Mineral Oil, Oryzanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, ActiveProtec™ OX) and the W/O emulsifiers (Phospholipid, Warp Cream Maker™) to the required temperature (usually around 70-80°C).
Prepare the Water Phase: Combine and heat the water-soluble ingredients (Water, Disodium EDTA, Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids, Butylene Glycol) to the same temperature as the oil phase.
Emulsification: Slowly add the heated Water Phase to the heated Oil Phase while mixing continuously with high shear (e.g., using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) until the emulsion forms.
Cooling: Continue mixing at a lower speed while the emulsion cools down.
Add Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Once the emulsion has cooled sufficiently (usually below 40°C), add the preservative (Mild Preserved Eco) and any other heat-sensitive ingredients if applicable.
Final Mixing: Mix until homogeneous.

Following the correct emulsification procedure is crucial for achieving a stable cream texture. The ingredients themselves are appropriate for your desired product benefits.