Cream Formulation Pilling Issue and Adjustment for Brightening

Asked by: scamorwa On: April 06, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a cream formulation aimed at achieving skin brightening and reducing freckles. The original formula includes the following ingredients:

  • French Pine Bark Extract: 2%
  • Safe-B3: 5%
  • GlucoBright: 4%
  • MOIST24: 4%
  • Satin Cream Maker: 1.5%
  • Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen): 1%
  • Slim-Coffee (Caffeine): 3%
  • Light Cream Maker: 1.5%
  • Water: Remaining percentage

When I apply this cream, it pills or peels off like dead skin. What is causing this pilling issue, and how can I adjust the formula to fix it while retaining the desired brightening and freckle reduction benefits?

Answer

Subject: Cream pilling issue

Hello,

Thank you for providing your cream formulation and describing the issue. The phenomenon you are experiencing, where the cream peels off like dead skin when applied (often called "pilling"), is a common problem in cosmetic formulations.

Based on the ingredients you used and the staff's reply, the most likely cause is the presence of Slim-Coffee (Caffeine). Caffeine is an electrolyte, and electrolytes can sometimes cause instability or incompatibility issues with certain emulsifiers or thickeners used in cream formulations, leading to pilling.

The staff's suggestion to remove Slim-Coffee and Light Cream Maker and replace the removed percentage with water is a valid approach to resolve this pilling issue. Removing the electrolyte (Caffeine) should help stabilize the formula and prevent the undesirable interaction causing the peeling.

Regarding your goal of achieving brighter skin and reducing freckles, the other active ingredients in your formula, French Pine Bark Extract, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), and GlucoBright (N-Acetyl Glucosamine), are all excellent ingredients known for their skin brightening and anti-pigmentation properties. These ingredients are suitable for your desired outcome.

The dark color of the cream is likely due to the natural color of the French Pine Bark Extract, which can be reddish-brown. This color is normal for formulations containing this extract.

In summary, to fix the pilling issue, please follow the staff's advice:

  1. Remove Slim-Coffee (Caffeine) from the formula.
  2. Remove Light Cream Maker from the formula.
  3. Replace the total percentage of these two ingredients (3% + 1.5% = 4.5%) with Water.

The adjusted formula would be:

  1. French Pine Bark Extract = 2%
  2. Safe-B3 = 5%
  3. GlucoBright = 4%
  4. MOIST24 = 4%
  5. Satin Cream Maker = 1.5%
  6. Phenoxyethanol (Optiphen) = 1%
  7. Water = Remaining percentage (100% - 2 - 5 - 4 - 4 - 1.5 - 1 = 82.5%)

This adjusted formula removes the ingredient causing the pilling while retaining the key active ingredients for brightening and freckle reduction.