Cream Formulation Resulting in Thin Texture
Question
I mixed a cream according to the following formula, but the texture is very liquid, almost like water. I'm not sure why this is happening.
Formula:
- Sensitive Cream Maker™: 5%
- Glyceryl Stearate Citrate: 3%
- Copaiba Oil: 3%
- Argan Oil: 3%
- 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
- Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™): 5%
- Calendula Extract (Water Soluble): 5%
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder): 5%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
- Bisabolol (Alpha Bisabolol): 1%
- Para-Preserve (eq. Phenonip P4): 0.5%
Water: Add to 100%
Mixing Procedure:
- A. Mix 1+2+3+4 water and heat to 80 degrees.
- B. Heat water to 80 degrees.
- Mix A+B until the temperature drops to 40 degrees (the texture remained liquid while stirring until cool).
- C. Mix 6+7+8+9 in the reserved water.
- Add C to A+B.
- Add Bisabolol (Alpha Bisabolol).
- Add Para-Preserve (eq. Phenonip P4).
All ingredients were ordered from MySkinRecipes. I used an Overhead stirrer and a heating stirrer.
Note: I previously asked about adding Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™) to Sensitive Cream Maker™ and Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, and the team confirmed it was possible without issues.
Answer
Cream Formulation Troubleshooting: Addressing Thin Texture
It's understandable to be concerned when your cream formulation turns out much thinner than expected, almost like water. Based on the formula and steps you provided, there are several factors that could contribute to this issue.
Here's an analysis of potential causes and recommended solutions:
Potential Causes for Thin Texture
- Emulsifier System: Your formula uses both Sensitive Cream Maker™ (5%) and Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (3%). While Sensitive Cream Maker™ is a robust emulsifier, the description for Glyceryl Stearate Citrate notes that if used alone, it results in a quite liquid texture and requires a thickener or wax to achieve viscosity. Even in combination, the total emulsifier amount (8%) might not be sufficient to create a thick cream structure, especially with the other ingredients present in the water phase.
- Aloe Vera Extract (Electrolyte): The Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™) is used at 5%. The product description specifically mentions that this extract is an electrolyte and may cause some gels or creams to become soft/liquid. This is a very likely contributor to the thinness, as electrolytes can interfere with the structure formed by some emulsifiers and thickeners.
- High Percentage of Water-Soluble Actives: The combined percentage of water-soluble ingredients like 1,2-Hexanediol, Aloe Vera Extract, Calendula Extract, Panthenol, and Safe-B3™ is quite high (23% before adding water). While these ingredients are beneficial, a high load of water-soluble components can sometimes challenge the stability and viscosity of an emulsion if the emulsifier and thickening system are not robust enough.
- Mixing Procedure: The description of step A is slightly ambiguous ("mix 1+2+3+4 water and heat to 80 degrees"). If water was mixed with the oil phase and emulsifiers before combining with the main water phase, it might affect the proper formation of the emulsion. Emulsifiers are typically melted in the oil phase or dispersed in the water phase separately and then combined at the required temperature with proper mixing.
Recommended Solutions
- Add a Water-Phase Thickener: The most effective way to increase the viscosity is to incorporate a water-phase thickener (also known as a rheology modifier or gel maker) into your formula. This will build viscosity in the water phase and help stabilize the emulsion. Suitable thickeners that are often compatible with these types of formulas include Xanthan Gum or Carbomer. You would typically add this to your water phase (Part B or C) and ensure it is fully hydrated before combining the phases. Start with a low percentage (e.g., 0.1-0.5%) and adjust as needed in future trials.
- Review Mixing Procedure: Ensure your mixing procedure follows standard emulsification techniques where the oil phase (containing oil-soluble ingredients and oil-soluble/dispersible emulsifiers melted together) and the water phase (containing water and water-soluble ingredients, including your water-phase thickener if added) are heated separately to the required temperature (usually around 70-80°C for your emulsifiers) before being combined slowly under continuous stirring/homogenization until the emulsion forms and cools.
Adding a water-phase thickener is the primary recommendation to address the thin consistency caused by the factors mentioned above, particularly the electrolyte effect from the Aloe Vera Extract and the nature of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Argan Oil (Virgin - Deodorized)
Calendula Extract (Water Soluble)
Para-Preserve (eq. Phenonip P4)
Copaiba Oil (High Beta Caryophyllene)