Cream Formulation: Silicone Substitution, Emulsifier Comparison, and Percentages
Question
I am working on a cream formulation and have a few questions regarding ingredient selection and percentages:
- What is the difference between Cyclotetrasiloxane and Cyclopentasiloxane, and which one should be used now?
- What is the difference between
Easy Cream Maker™andSepGEL 305(both listed as Polyacrylamide & C13-14 isoParafin & Laureth-7)? Which one is recommended for a cream formulation? - What are the recommended percentages for a cream formulation that uses approximately 85-90% DI Water, along with ingredients like Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Jojoba Oil, Fragrance, Phenoxyethanol, and Caprylyl Glycol?
Answer
Cream Formulation Guidance
Regarding your cream formulation and questions about ingredient substitutions and percentages:
Cyclotetrasiloxane Substitution
As you noted and the staff confirmed, Cyclotetrasiloxane is no longer permitted for use in cosmetics in many regions due to safety concerns. You should substitute it with Cyclopentasiloxane. While both are silicones and provide a smooth feel, they have slightly different evaporation rates and skin feel.
Polyacrylamide & C13-14 isoParafin & Laureth-7 (Easy Cream Maker™ vs. SepGEL 305)
Both Easy Cream Maker™ and SepGEL 305 contain the same active ingredients (Polyacrylamide & C13-14 isoParafin & Laureth-7) and function as emulsifiers and thickeners that can be used without heat. The primary difference lies in the manufacturer, affecting the quality and cost:
- Easy Cream Maker™: Produced by a manufacturer focused on quality, generally resulting in a better texture.
- SepGEL 305: A lower-cost alternative, but the resulting texture may not be as refined as with Easy Cream Maker™.
If your priority is achieving the best possible cream texture, Easy Cream Maker™ is recommended. If cost is a primary concern, SepGEL 305 is a viable option, but you may notice a difference in the final product's feel. It is advisable to test both if possible to determine which meets your desired texture and cost balance.
Recommended Percentages
For a cream formulation like the one you described, the general guideline provided is:
- DI Water: Approximately 85-90%
- Remaining Ingredients (including silicones, emulsifiers, oils, fragrance, preservatives): The balance to reach 100%
The specific percentages for each of the remaining ingredients will depend on the desired viscosity, feel, and performance of your final cream. You will need to experiment with the ratios of the oil phase (Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Jojoba Oil, Fragrance) and the emulsifier/thickener (Easy Cream Maker™ or SepGEL 305) to achieve the desired thick, extrudable texture.
Remember to include your preservatives (Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol) at their recommended usage rates, typically in the range of 0.5-1.0% for Phenoxyethanol and 0.3-1.0% for Ethylhexylglycerin (often paired with Caprylyl Glycol for preservation).
Related Products Mentioned
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
Easy Cream Maker™
Ethylhexylglycerin
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Dimethiconol (Cyclopentasiloxane Base)