A Cream Formulation for Brightening and Barrier Repair

We're delighted you've chosen these excellent ingredients from MySkinRecipes to create your own skincare products!

You have several powerful ingredients, but it's crucial to note that Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C) and Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) should not be used together in the same formula. Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) can affect the stability of Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G), reducing its effectiveness.

Therefore, we recommend a cream formulation focusing on brightening and skin barrier enhancement using compatible ingredients. We'll also advise on how to use the incompatible ingredients in separate products.

Brightening and Barrier Repair Cream Formulation

This formula will help hydrate, brighten, and strengthen your skin, suitable for daily use.

Ingredients:

• Part 1: Water Phase
  • Distilled Water: Up to 70.0%
  • Natto Gum (Nutto Gum): 5.0% (for moisture and gentle skin brightening)
  • Glycerin: 3.0% (humectant)
• Part 2: Oil Phase
  • Light Oil (e.g., Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride): 8.0%
  • Emulsifier (e.g., Glyceryl Stearate SE or Polysorbate 60 + Cetearyl Alcohol): 5.0% (to combine water and oil into a cream)
  • Cetyl Alcohol: 2.0% (thickener and emollient)
• Part 3: Cool Down Phase (Add when cream cools down)
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland): 2.0% (for reducing dark spots and evening skin tone)
  • Ceracare™ Cholesterol (Water Dispersible Cholesterol): 3.0% (for strengthening skin barrier and enhancing moisture)
  • Preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol): 1.0%
  • pH Adjuster (e.g., Lactic Acid or Sodium Hydroxide Solution): As needed (to achieve a final pH of 4.5-6.5)

Instructions:

1. Prepare Part 1 (Water Phase): Combine distilled water, Natto Gum, and Glycerin. Stir well until fully mixed.
2. Prepare Part 2 (Oil Phase): In a separate container, combine the light oil, emulsifier, and Cetyl Alcohol. Gently heat (around 70-75°C) until all ingredients are melted and well combined.
3. Combine Phases: Slowly pour Part 1 (Water Phase) into Part 2 (Oil Phase) while continuously stirring or using a hand blender until the mixture forms a cream.
4. Cool Down Phase: Allow the cream to cool down to below 30°C. Then, add Alpha Arbutin, Ceracare™ Cholesterol, and the preservative. Stir well until thoroughly incorporated.
5. Adjust pH: Use pH paper or a pH meter to check the cream's pH. It should be between 4.5 and 6.5. If the pH is outside this range, gradually add the pH adjuster until the desired value is reached.

Additional Recommendations for Remaining Ingredients

Since Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) and Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C) are incompatible in a single formula, we suggest the following:

• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): You can use this to create a separate serum or cream focusing on wrinkle reduction, redness/hyperpigmentation, hydration, and oil control. Use at a rate of 1-10% (5% recommended). It should be mixed in the water phase, and the pH should be adjusted to 4.0-7.0.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C): This is ideal for a Vitamin C serum focused on brightening, reducing dark spots, and providing antioxidant benefits. Use at a rate of 2-10%. The formula's pH must be adjusted to 6.5-6.8 for optimal stability, and it should not be combined with Safe-B3™ or Zinc PCA.

Formulating these ingredients separately will ensure each active ingredient performs at its best and maintains its stability.