Cream Formulation with Retinal, Tranexamic Acid, Natto Gum: Mixing and Texture

Asked by: buaploy79 On: October 31, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a cream formulation with the following ingredients:

  • Retinal (Retinaldehyde) 0.05%
  • Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) 0.5%
  • Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • Natto Gum 5%
  • Soft Cream Maker 3%
  • Preservative 1%
  • Distilled Water 87.45%

Is this formula mixable? If so, what are the correct mixing instructions to achieve a stable cream, and what kind of texture should I expect, especially regarding initial consistency and how it sets?

Answer

Subject: Cream Formulation and Mixing Instructions

Based on the formula you provided and the staff's confirmation, this cream formulation is mixable. Here are detailed instructions on how to mix it, along with some comments on the formula:

Formula:

  • Retinal (Retinaldehyde) 0.05%
  • Vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) 0.5%
  • Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • Natto Gum 5%
  • Soft Cream Maker 3%
  • Preservative 1%
  • Distilled Water 87.45%
  • Total: 100%

Mixing Instructions:

  1. Prepare the Water Phase (Phase A): In a heat-resistant beaker, combine Distilled Water, Tranexamic Acid, Natto Gum, and Preservative. Stir well to ensure ingredients are dispersed or dissolved. Heat this phase to 70-75°C.
  2. Prepare the Oil Phase (Phase B): In a separate heat-resistant beaker, combine Retinal, Vitamin E, and Soft Cream Maker. Heat this phase to 70-75°C, stirring until the Soft Cream Maker is fully melted and the ingredients are homogenous.
  3. Emulsification: Once both phases are at 70-75°C, slowly pour Phase B into Phase A while mixing continuously. Use a high-shear mixer (homogenizer) or a strong overhead stirrer at high speed for 10-15 minutes to create a stable emulsion.
  4. Cooling: Switch to a slower stirring speed and continue stirring while the emulsion cools down to below 40°C. Stirring during cooling helps ensure a smooth texture and prevents separation.
  5. Post-Cooling: Once the cream has cooled, check the pH. For optimal stability and efficacy of ingredients like Retinal and Tranexamic Acid, a pH between 5.0 and 6.0 is often recommended. Adjust the pH if necessary using a diluted acid (like Lactic Acid) or base (like Sodium Hydroxide solution).

As the staff mentioned, the cream may appear liquid initially and will thicken and set over 6-12 hours as the Natto Gum hydrates fully.

Comments on the Formula:

  • This formula combines potent ingredients like Retinal (for anti-aging) and Tranexamic Acid (for brightening and reducing redness).
  • Vitamin E provides antioxidant and skin conditioning benefits.
  • Natto Gum at 5% acts as a significant thickener and moisturizer. This concentration is relatively high for a gum and will contribute substantially to the final texture, which will develop over time.
  • Soft Cream Maker is the emulsifier responsible for binding the oil and water phases into a cream.
  • The preservative is essential for the safety and shelf-life of the product.
  • Controlling the final pH is crucial for the stability and effectiveness of the active ingredients, especially Retinal.

This formula appears well-balanced for its intended purpose, keeping in mind the texture development due to Natto Gum and the importance of pH control.