Cream-Gel Moisturizer Formula Review: Compatibility, Hydration, Texture, and Stickiness

Question

I want to make a [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/14-%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C:jv62v8tz]moisturizer[/url:jv62v8tz] with a Cream Gel texture, focusing on hydrating normal-dry skin. I plan to use beads to add visual interest. Here is the ingredient list:

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/247-satin-mousse-silky-cream-maker.html:jv62v8tz]Satin Cream Maker[/url:jv62v8tz] 1.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/1169-phospholipid-hydrogenated-lecithin.html:jv62v8tz]Phospholipid[/url:jv62v8tz] 3.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:jv62v8tz]Safe-B3[/url:jv62v8tz]™ ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:jv62v8tz]Vitamin B3, Niacinamide[/url:jv62v8tz]) 5.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:jv62v8tz]GlucoBright™[/url:jv62v8tz] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:jv62v8tz]Acetyl glucosamine[/url:jv62v8tz]) 4.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/137-ethoxydiglycol-solvent-carrier.html:jv62v8tz]Ethoxydiglycol[/url:jv62v8tz] 2.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A9%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/252-zinc-pca-%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C-%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD.html:jv62v8tz]Zinc PCA[/url:jv62v8tz] 1.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/258-waterlock-polyquaternium-51.html:jv62v8tz]WaterLock™[/url:jv62v8tz] 1.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/214-natural-moisturizing-amino-acids-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7.html:jv62v8tz]Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids[/url:jv62v8tz] 3.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/197-trehalose-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AA.html:jv62v8tz]TreMoisture™ (Trehalose)[/url:jv62v8tz] 2.00%
Skin-Barrier™ ([url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87/7564-skin-mimic-skin-barrier-restoration.html:jv62v8tz]Skin Barrier Restoration[/url:jv62v8tz]) 5.00%
8D [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/404-double-hyaluron-liquid.html:jv62v8tz]Hyaluronic Acid[/url:jv62v8tz] 5.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/1605-resveratrol-encapsulation.html:jv62v8tz]Resveratrol LongMax™[/url:jv62v8tz] 3.00%
Gold [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87/1400-mannitol.html:jv62v8tz]Mannitol[/url:jv62v8tz]/[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/126-%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%8C:jv62v8tz]Vitamin E Beads[/url:jv62v8tz] 1mm เล็ก 2.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/87-jojoba-oil-golden-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%88%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B2-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%87%E0%B8%99.html:jv62v8tz]Jojoba Oil[/url:jv62v8tz] (Clear - Deodorized) 3.00%
Ylang [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/327-ylang-oil-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%B2.html:jv62v8tz]Ylang Oil[/url:jv62v8tz] (Flower)/Michelia Champaca Flower [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/319-%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A1:jv62v8tz]Fragrance[/url:jv62v8tz] Oil 1.00%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:jv62v8tz]น้ำกลั่น[/url:jv62v8tz] ปราศจากเชื้อ 59.00%

I have the following questions:

Is the formula compatible?
Is the hydration sufficient for normal-dry skin? (If not, which ingredients should be adjusted?)
Will this formula result in a cream-gel texture? (If not, how should I adjust it?)
Will the formula be sticky? (If sticky, how should I adjust it?)

Thank you in advance.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Analysis of Your Cream-Gel Moisturizer Formula

Here is an analysis of your proposed cream-gel moisturizer formula, focusing on compatibility, hydration, texture, and feel.

1. Formula Compatibility

The ingredients in your formula are generally compatible. You have a mix of water-soluble ingredients, an oil phase (Jojoba Oil), and emulsifiers/thickeners (Satin Cream Maker, Phospholipid). Key considerations for compatibility and stability include:

Emulsification: You are using both Satin Cream Maker and Phospholipid. Satin Cream Maker is a primary emulsifier and thickener, while Phospholipid acts as a co-emulsifier and penetration enhancer. The combination should be able to create a stable emulsion, but the specific mixing method is crucial. Phospholipid requires high-speed blending (at least 1000 rpm for 15 minutes) at room temperature (below 40°C) to disperse properly in either the water or oil phase before combining. Satin Cream Maker should be mixed in the water phase, then the oil phase added with continuous mixing, avoiding speeds over 2500 rpm. Carefully integrating these two different mixing requirements is key to stability.
pH: The stability and solubility of several ingredients depend on pH. Zinc PCA is best soluble at pH 4-6. Resveratrol LongMax is most stable at pH 3-6.5. Safe-B3 is stable at pH 3-8 (best 4-7), and GlucoBright at pH 3-7. Aiming for a final formula pH in the range of 4.0-6.0 would optimize the stability and efficacy of these key ingredients.
Resveratrol LongMax: This ingredient requires an equal proportion of oil for effective release. Your formula includes 3% Resveratrol LongMax and 3% Jojoba Oil, which meets this requirement.

Overall, the formula is workable, but successful emulsification depends heavily on the correct processing steps for both Satin Cream Maker and Phospholipid, and maintaining the optimal pH range is important for ingredient performance and stability.

2. Hydration for Normal-Dry Skin

Your formula contains a robust blend of moisturizing and skin barrier-supporting ingredients, making it suitable for normal to dry skin. Key hydrators and barrier enhancers include:

8D Hyaluronic Acid (5%): Provides hydration to both the surface and deeper layers of the skin.
Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids (3%): Mimics the skin's natural moisturizing factors.
TreMoisture (Trehalose) (2%): A humectant that enhances hydration and barrier function.
WaterLock (1%): Helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Skin-Barrier (5%): Provides ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids to restore the skin barrier.
Phospholipid (3%): Moisturizes and supports the skin barrier.
Safe-B3 (5%): Stimulates ceramide production.
Jojoba Oil (3%): Provides emollience and helps reduce TEWL.
Gold Mannitol/Vitamin E Beads (2%): Mannitol is a humectant.

For normal skin, this level of hydration is likely sufficient. For dry skin, while good, you could enhance the moisturizing effect further by increasing the concentration of 8D Hyaluronic Acid towards the higher end of the recommended range for dry skin (5-10%, so perhaps 8-10%) and potentially increasing Skin-Barrier (recommended 10% for dry skin) to provide more intensive barrier repair.

3. Cream-Gel Texture

The intended texture is cream-gel. Your formula includes ingredients that contribute to both cream and gel characteristics:

Satin Cream Maker (1%): This emulsifier/thickener is designed to create cream textures, but can be used in gels, serums, lotions, or creams. At 1%, it's on the lower side for thickening, which might help keep the texture lighter.
Phospholipid (3%): Can increase viscosity at higher concentrations.
8D Hyaluronic Acid (5%): While a thick liquid, 5% typically contributes viscosity but doesn't form a strong gel on its own. Higher concentrations or different types of HA (like 4D Hyaluron) are usually needed for a pronounced gel texture.
Jojoba Oil (3%): The presence of oil and emulsifiers will give it some creamy feel.

Given the components, the resulting texture will likely be a light cream or a cream-gel. It may lean more towards a light cream depending on the emulsification process. To achieve a more definitive cream-gel texture, you could consider slightly reducing the Jojoba Oil percentage or incorporating a dedicated water-phase gel-forming agent compatible with your system, or increasing the 8D Hyaluronic Acid percentage as suggested for dry skin, as higher HA can contribute a more gel-like feel.

4. Stickiness

Stickiness is a common concern with formulas containing high levels of humectants. Your formula includes several humectants (Hyaluronic Acid, Amino Acids, Trehalose, Mannitol, Glycerin). However, it also contains ingredients known to improve skin feel and reduce tackiness:

WaterLock: Provides a slippery feel.
Satin Cream Maker: Creates a soft and smooth texture.
Phospholipid: Contributes to a good skin feel.
Jojoba Oil: Provides slip and emollience.

Based on these components, the formula is unlikely to be excessively sticky. The combination of humectants with ingredients that improve slip and texture should result in a pleasant feel. If you find it slightly tacky, ensuring all ingredients are fully dissolved and emulsified correctly can help. Minor adjustments like a very slight reduction in total humectants or a tiny increase in the oil phase (if within the emulsifier's capacity) could also be considered, but prioritize maintaining hydration benefits.

The Gold Mannitol/Vitamin E Beads are primarily for visual appeal and should not significantly impact the texture or feel of the base cream-gel.

In summary, your formula is well-designed for hydration with generally compatible ingredients. Pay close attention to the emulsification process and pH control. The hydration level is good for normal skin and can be boosted for dry skin. The texture is likely a light cream or cream-gel, and stickiness should not be a major issue.