Cream Hardening Issue in Anti-Aging Moisturizing Formula

Hello! I understand the issue you are facing with your cream formulation. The hardening of the cream texture after initial use is a common problem that can occur, especially in cream formulas containing oils and thickening/texturizing agents.

Based on the list of ingredients you provided:

• 1,2-Hexanediol
• 1,3 Butylene Glycol
• Trehalose
• Wax Cream Maker (PEG-8 Beeswax)
• BHT
• IPM (Isopropyl Myristate)
• Petrolatum
• Jojoba Oil
• Dimethicone
• Isohexadecane
• Glyceryl glucoside
• Sodium Lactate
• Galactomyces (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate)
• acetyl hexapeptide
• Pal- GHK (likely part of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 or Palmitoyl Oligopeptide)
• DAME (Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate or DMAE)

This hardening issue can stem from several combined factors related to the formulation's stability, particularly the emulsification system and the interaction of ingredients. The main causes related to the ingredients and cream making process are:

1. Emulsion Instability: The emulsification system you are using (Wax Cream Maker/PEG-8 Beeswax) might not be robust enough to maintain the oil and water phases completely stable over time or with temperature changes. Slight separation of the emulsion can alter the cream's structure and lead to a harder texture.
2. Crystallization of Certain Ingredients: Some ingredients, such as Petrolatum or even the Wax Cream Maker itself, might undergo recrystallization over time, causing the cream to feel grainy or harder.
3. Insufficient Emulsifier or Thickener: The amount of Wax Cream Maker used might be insufficient relative to the total oil phase content, resulting in a weak emulsion structure that destabilizes over time.
4. Water Loss: Although not the primary cause of "hardening," if water evaporates from the cream (e.g., from opening the container or inadequate packaging), the concentration of other ingredients increases, which can make the cream feel thicker or more viscous.
5. Interaction Between Ingredients: Some ingredients, especially complex active ingredients like Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate or Peptides, can potentially affect emulsion stability. While they are less likely to directly cause hardening, they could be a contributing factor by weakening the overall emulsion system.

Suggested Solutions:

Since the exact percentages of each ingredient in your formula are unknown, I recommend considering adjustments based on these approaches:

1. Review Wax Cream Maker Quantity: Try slightly increasing the amount of Wax Cream Maker to help strengthen the emulsion system.
2. Consider Adding a Thickener/Stabilizer: Incorporating a polymeric thickener in the water phase, such as Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, or Acrylates Copolymer, in a small amount can significantly improve emulsion stability and help maintain the cream's texture.
3. Adjust Oil Phase Ratio: The ratio of liquid oils (IPM, Jojoba Oil, Dimethicone, Isohexadecane) to semi-solid/waxy components (Petrolatum, Wax Cream Maker) affects the final texture and stability. You might try slightly reducing the proportion of Petrolatum if you suspect its crystallization is a major cause.
4. Check Manufacturing Process: Ensure that the emulsification process was followed correctly, including the temperature of both phases before mixing, the mixing speed and duration, and the cooling process, as these significantly impact cream stability.
5. Packaging: Use packaging that seals well to minimize air exposure and water evaporation.

Active ingredients like Galactomyces, Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide, Pal-GHK), or DAME are generally not the primary cause of cream hardening, but their compatibility with the overall emulsion system is important.

In summary, this issue often arises from emulsion instability and the arrangement of ingredients in the oil phase and texturizers. I recommend focusing on adjusting the emulsifier system and considering adding a thickener to enhance stability.

If you need more information about specific ingredients, you can search for their English names on the myskinrecipes.com website, such as "PEG-8 Beeswax", "Petrolatum", "Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate", "Acetyl Hexapeptide", "Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1", "Dimethylaminoethanol Tartrate", to find details and properties of each.

I hope this information helps you resolve the issue!