Cream Thickeners and Ingredients

Let's address each of your questions:

1. GMS and white cast: Glyceryl Stearate SE (GMS SE) is a thickener and emulsifier used to increase viscosity and create a creamy texture, often used in conjunction with ingredients like Cetyl Alcohol. While GMS SE itself is not explicitly described as causing a white cast, ingredients commonly used alongside it, such as Cetyl Alcohol, are known to contribute to a white appearance on the skin when applied.

2. Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol usage and white cast:

   • Cetyl Alcohol: This ingredient acts as a thickener and emollient, helping to increase cream texture and provide moisture by coating the skin to reduce water loss. The product description states that Cetyl Alcohol will cause whiteness when applied to the skin. The recommended usage rate is 0.5-6%. Using 1-2% is within this recommended range, but the ingredient inherently contributes to the white cast. If you want to avoid a white cast, the description suggests using Pentaerythrityl Distearate as a substitute.
   • Stearyl Alcohol: This functions as a thickener, stabilizer, and co-emulsifier. Its recommended usage rate is 1-20%. The product description for Stearyl Alcohol does not mention it causing a white cast. Using 1-2% is well within its recommended range.

3. Beeswax vs. Petrolatum for non-greasy feel:

   • Natural White Beeswax: This is a natural thickener and emollient that helps nourish the skin and gives a soft texture to formulations. While moisturizing, waxes generally contribute a certain level of richness.
   • Vaseline Petroleum Jelly: This ingredient primarily acts as an occlusive agent, preventing water loss from the skin. It is typically known for creating a protective barrier that can feel quite heavy and occlusive on the skin.
     Comparing the two, Beeswax is generally considered to provide a less heavy or greasy feel compared to Petrolatum, although both will add richness to a formula.

4. Recommended non-greasy, moisturizing, fast-absorbing cream thickeners:
   For a cream that is not overly greasy but provides good moisture and absorbs well, consider the following:

   • Satin Cream Maker™: This is a heat-free emulsifier and thickener that creates a cream with a soft and smooth texture. It can handle up to 25% oil and is recommended at a usage rate of 1-1.5% for viscosity. Its description highlights a smooth feel, which aligns with a less greasy preference. It's also easy to use as it doesn't require heat.
   • Butter Cream Maker™: This emulsifier requires heat (around 80°C) and can emulsify up to 30% oil. At a usage rate of 2-3%, it produces a smooth, soft, and thick cream. While it can create a rich texture, using it at the lower end of the recommended range and selecting lighter oils can help manage the greasy feel.

The final texture and absorption of your cream will also depend heavily on the types of oils and other emollients you include in your formulation, in addition to the chosen thickener/emulsifier. For normal to dry skin, Satin Cream Maker, combined with suitable moisturizing oils, could be a good option for a non-greasy yet hydrating cream.